560 diesel losing power

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have a 560 farmall diesel that has been on our farm since new (1963 I believe). We were still using this tractor most days in the busy season until last fall when it lost power. Sounded like clogged fuel filters so we put it away for the winter planning to replace them this spring. Replaced both filters and cleaned sediment bowl and screen this spring, and it didn't help. Lots of fuel flow through to pump so we sent the pump out to be rebuilt ($600....ouch). Installed pump, got it timed, still not running right. Checked air intake system, even removed air pipe at manifold with engine running, didn't help. The tractor will start and run rather rough for about 5 mins at full throttle, then slowly starts to lose power, sometimes will stall completely. I have removed the fuel line from the pump as soon as it stalled and there is lots of fuel there. Have also cracked each fuel line at injectors with engine running and could hear engine miss on every one. Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to give as much info as possible. If anyone has any ideas I'd sure be glad to hear them. Thanks
 
The return line to the tank is probably pluged at the check valve that goes into the tank. To check loosen the fitting at the elbow on top of the pump and see if the power picks up.
Chuck
 
Two possible causes:

Like Chuck says, check the return system for a restriction.

Does the tractor "seem" to run okay at lower rpms, but smokes a light grey at wide open throttle and the engine labors?

Back that timing up a touch; one degree makes all the difference in the world on a 282.

Allan
 
Jeff: I agree with Allan and Chuck, however there is one other item can be added, cracked fuel lines or filter canister. If that is the case it has to be between pump and tank. I've never had this happen on a 282, but did have it happen on a Deere and a 6.2 Chevy. Chevy had a cracked base, Deere had a cracked line, neither leaked fuel, but both sucked air. Not enough to stop engine but power suffered greatly especially at high RPM. I can tell you small cracks like that are hard to find. I might point out, I never did find the crack on 6.2 filter base, but a new one cured it.

I doubt if those canisters on a 282 would give much trouble, but fuel lines could. I'd still check out Chuck's and Allan's suggestion first. I've seen that one as well.
 
If you have a rubber fuel from the final fuel filter to the fuel pump replace it with a new one regardless of outside apperance as it could be coming apart on the inside and restricting fuel flow. I have owned my 560D since 1965 and have to replace that line twice. If there is good flow when you crack the line at the pump take the fitting apart and see how it flows after a minute or two. Armand
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I didn't get time today to fiddle with this tractor, hopefully tomorrow. I hadn't thought of the return line being clogged, although when I removed the pump the fuel was running from the tank out the return line until I raised it above the fuel level. After the pump was rebuilt I had to turn it as far as the slots would allow to get the timing marks to line up. Before the pump was removed it was near the middle of the slots. The rubber line from the final filter to the pump was recently replaced on this tractor, the old one was leaking at the fitting (tractor still ran fine even with the leak). Thanks again and I will keep you posted.
Jeff
 
If you changed the pump position that much most likely the pump is out of time.

With the engine not running the the rear timing mark should be about the middle of the access opening in the pump housing. Roll the engine over by hand in the direction it normally runs, clockwise, and stop at three degrees BTDC. At that point the two marks should line up. If you do not see the front mark turn the engine one complete turn and recheck. After you make a timing adjustment turn the engine two complete turns to verify that it is correct. Only turn the engine clockwise to check the timing. If you turn it counterclockwise the marks will not line up the same due to play in the gears and pump drive.
 
Turned out it was the return line. As soon as I started to loosen it the engine picked right up. Blew back through the line with the air hose until I could hear it bubble in the tank, hooked it up again and now it's running fine. I don't regret having the pump rebuilt even though it wasn't the problem, this tractor has over 15,000 hrs and the pump had never been touched. Thanks everyone for your help, my next step would have been to send it to the Case dealer so you have saved me a lot of money and lost time.
 

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