M Farmall Alternator Kit

The answer is yes.
The Easiest is to use a Hitachi alternator from a mid 80s Nissan truck. It is small and easily fits. It wires with the L terminal connected to the same Diode or lamp (idiot light) then to ignition, as an 10SI Delco. The other terminal S connects directly to the big output terminal.
A 10SI will also fit but has much less room. The existing bracket is turned upside down, and all thread is used to hold the main pivot point. A new adjuster will also need to be fabbed. THe belt length is critical and needs to be measured to just fit. There are thousands running Delcos W/O cutting the hood.
As to a Kit I would not use one, See Bob M wiring diagrams to get the scoop. A one wire system is harder to get charging, and often has a drain when not being used. JimN
Bob Ms incredible diagrams
 
Why are ya'll giving a "Delco 1-wire" such a hard time? It would not have been designed, built, and sold if it was inferior. There are thousands it not millions of them in service in the industrial, commercial, and marine applications.

My father and I have a total of at least 5 of them on various pieces of equipment. Not one of them has "drain" issues. Some may sit 3 or 4 months without starting or charging and they start right up. If they are draining the battery, there is a diode failed. My alternator on my 2001 K1500 Chevrolet was draining the battery in 3-4 days and still worked. It was a multi-wire unit.

The only issue with a 1-wire is that after starting you have to rev the engine a bit to kick it in. A 3 or 4 wire uses the ignition circuit to excite the charge process. The 1-wire is excited once a certian RPM is made. Once it is excited, it will continue to charge at idle.

CT
 
Who said anything about giving it a hard time? I only suggest the 10si because it was on almost all chevy cars from the 80's. It's cheap and plentiful.

T.C.
 
Any time someone asks about converting from a gen to an alt or 6 VDC to 12 VDC there are strong opinions about what to use. Some say that the 3 wire is the only way to go and that the 1 wire is trouble. Some say the 1 wire drains the battery when idle. Some say keep the 6 VDC and rebuild the gen.

Its all opinions. My opinion is the 1 wire for the simplicity of wiring (one 8-10 ga wire). The only drawback is I do not think the idiot light can be wired into a 1 wire. If your looking cheap and used them the 10SI is a good choice and easy to find. I think I gave about $80 or so for the 1 wire.

CT
 
Why is that a drawback? An idiot light is not necessary on a 1-wire. Just look at the needle on the ammeter. If it's leaning right, it's charging.

These "opinions" are mostly due to a lack of knowledge about how things work, and a closed mind. Just because one person had trouble with one 1-wire alternator, people conclude that ALL people have problems with ALL 1-wire generators.

Fact of the matter is that 1-wire alternators are no more or less reliable than any other. The vast majority work right, and work for a long long time. A few do not work properly. The ones that don't work need to be fixed or replaced.
 
I totally agree with you mkirsch. I did however only pay 30 for my 10si rebuilt. I did have an old core laying around though. You are right they are all opinions. I actually get quite upset when someone says keep it 6 volt. That's find and dandy if you have other 6 volt machines/vehicles that you could jump start the tractor if you needed to. 12 volt just plain easier to think about, for me anyway. All I have is 12 volt. On my 6v M I did have new 00 cables, clean grounds a new borrowed battery from a friend. When it was cold out the thing would barely turn over. Also since I bought the tractor w/o a battery it was cheaper/same cost for me to convert the tractor to 12v than purchase a new 6v battery. Total cost was 50 bucks. 30 for alternator w/ core and 20 for a used good battery from the junkyard. It's an individual thing. Oh yea an it's easier to find 12v bulbs around here too!


T.C.
 

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