OOOOOOH_OOOOOOOH! It runs...

it charges, it turns off, the lights work, excellent!! I can't thank JimN, Brownie450, thresherman & all involved, for your help & great patience with my dumb donkey. Now, to figure out the other problem. Once the engine starts to draw a lot of gas, it starts sputtering & almost dies out. I have a feeling it may have something to do with the intake on the manifold frosting up. When I let off the throttle, the engine clears up & the frost & condensation clear up, as well. Can't say as I recall what causes this. Thanks again - Mike

You are welcome in every way.
The frost on the carb (around the top, migrating toward the lower areas) is pretty normal in humid weather. I would say it is a fuel delivery issue, make sure the fuel line to the carb flows well. There is a "hidden" screen at the carb fitting. What did you find on the electric issue? JimN

Try richening the high speed mixture by turning the screw out a 1/2 turn or so.

I ran a 10ga wire from the right (seated in the tractor seat) post to the batt terminal on the key switch. How about that, I have power to the key. I'm thinking something is slightly amiss, tho. The amp gague seems to not know what to do. It swings from the right all the way to the left side, when I turn the lights on. I give the engine a little more throttle & the needle swings over to about 20a charging (reminds me of the Johnny Cash song about the one on the right). As I putzed with the lights & throttle a little more, the needle hunts all over the place! What's this all about?

As for the frost, I think the problem lies within the manifold. It's a funny looking one, the likes of which I have not seen. The part # is 362437 R2. I'm digging around on Case's parts site & have only come up with a manafold heater block, for my particular manifold, under attachments. Otherwise, there is no match anywhere in the F400 listing. I'm going to dig around for a bit & see what I can't find. After that I'm going in for the night & I might have a snack & some sleep. There's fresh peaches in the fridge, calling my name. My bed, too! I got to get up early, do the fluids on our car & till the 1/2 acre back garden. ALL of it! With a Troybilt Horse that slobbers & leaks all over creation. UUUGH! :^) Thanks again - Mike

The amp gauge is not your problem. The regulator is not regulating. You don't want to run it long like that, or you're liable to cook the battery.

Re the system. It is not a good idea to run that wire that way.
Use a test light, and put the lead to ground. Put the probe on the Positive battery post (should be light)
Put the probe on the Starter relay where the battery connects (should be light!)
Put the probe in the terminal on that post where the wire attaches that goes to the dash (fat 10ga wire but not a cable) (should be light)
Put the probe on the other end of that wire at the amp gauge, wire terminal, not the amp gauge terminal bolt) (should be light)
Put the probe on the terminal where that wire connects (should be light)
Put the probe on the other amp gauge terminal, LOAD side. (should be light)
Put the probe on the wire going to the Ignition switch at the amp gauge (should be light)
Put the probe on the bat terminal of the ignition switch Should be light. (I'll bet this wire has a corroded terminal or bad connection) should be light.
The reason your gauge is going nuts is that the whole system is now partially through the amp gauge, and part way through the extra wire. Clean every terminal and check every wire in the Probing path and you will find the issue. Do not use that wire (it was an OK bypass test, but not a solution at all. JimN

(quoted from post at 16:15:55 07/15/09) it charges, it turns off, the lights work, excellent!!

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Thank Heavens! Congratulations.
mike