560 diesel - rebuild roosa master pump

Tractordummy · Jul 13, 2009

We are getting diesel in crankcase and suspect that we have lost seals on roosa master pump DBGFC631-49AE

Rebuilt engine last year and it was fine, hayed and moved bales with no problem. When we started using in this spring, it started leaking diesel into crankcase.

How do we reseal this or can anyone tell us where we can get it reman'd if beyond a normal mon-mechanic's function.

Hugh MacKay · Jul 13, 2009

Very easy fix, there is an O ring on shaft in pump. Remove all fuel lines, mark pump in relation to plate it mounts on for correct timing advance. Unbolt pump and slide it off shaft. Shaft will stay with timing gear. Do not turn engine or pump while you have it off. The O ring is on that shaft inside the pump. Lubricate the new O well before sliding pump back in place. Take special care in keeping alignment of pump and shaft correct as you slide it on. Don't ask me how I know. It wasn't the first one I did that I screwed up on.

Owen Aaland · Jul 13, 2009

Clean the side of the engine and pump before you start taking any thing apart. Scribe a mark on the front of the pump where it attached to the front plate on the engine so that you can match the marks when you go back together.

There are two seals on the drive shaft, one facing the pump and the other facing the front. There is also an o-ring to seal between the pump and the engine. Wire the throttle wide open before you remove the pump to keep the governor parts in place. Without the special tool it is a little more difficult to get the rear seal started correctly into the pump when you reassemble it, but take your time and you will get it. The pump can be installed only two ways on the shaft. There is a punch mark on the end of the shaft. Just make sure it matches the punch mark inside the pump and you will not get it out if time.

rustred · Jul 13, 2009

if you are able to do the seal then you may as well check or set the static timing to were it should be. 560 is 3 degrees btdc.turn engine over , # 1 cyl. on compression till pointer lines up with 3 degree mark. shut off your fuel at tank and remove timing window cover on side of pump.then see if the two marks are lined up. if not alighned loosen the two pump mounting bolts and turn pump either way to alighn marks and tighten bolts. you can do this last, but i would alighn the pointer to 3 degrees before removing pump and go ahead from there.you dont know if it is set to spec now and scribe lines arnt totally accurate.

Allan in NE · Jul 14, 2009

Don't forget to FIRST pull the little timing window cover and turn the engine until the marks line up.

If you don't it would be the same as yanking a distributor without noting the rotor position.

Allan

rustred · Jul 14, 2009

when you get # 1 cyl.on compression with the front pointer lined up the timing marks ARE in the window on pump as i mentioned. its not nesessary to open this window till your ready to check final timing, keeping cleanliness in mind.

Owen Aaland · Jul 14, 2009

(quoted from post at 05:39:35 07/14/09) Don't forget to FIRST pull the little timing window cover and turn the engine until the marks line up.

If you don't it would be the same as yanking a distributor without noting the rotor position.

Allan

As long as you match the dimples on the end of the shaft and inside the pump you will be in time. The pump drive shaft turns at one half crankshaft speed so if you match the dimples you will be in time even if the engine is rotated with the pump off.

Tractordummy · Aug 17, 2009

Replaced the o-ring and two cup seals in pump.

Put it together and it leaked like a sieve! I think we probably rolled the cup seal that faces the pump.

Even just sitting fuel would leak into the oil. Is this a gravity fed system even with motor off, or am I looking at a deeper problem.

I can tear it back down, but can someone give me any advise on getting the cup seal facing the pump in correctly? Is there either a special tool or a trick to this?

Thanks

560 diesel - rebuild roosa master pump

Tractordummy

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Hugh MacKay

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Owen Aaland

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rustred

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Allan in NE

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rustred

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Owen Aaland

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Tractordummy

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