Replacing Front Transmission Oil Seals

What is the correct procedure when replacing the front two transmission oil seals on a Super M? It orginally had the belly hyrdaulic pump and there is a bad oil leak from the drive shaft coming out of the transmission. I see that the drive shaft is a nut and I'm not sure if it has right hand or left hand threads. Also how do you go to replace the main oil seal on the linkage/drive shaft from the clutch to the transmission? Thanks
-David Goode Coggon, IA

David - The good news is the hardest part - removing the belly pump - has already been done for you! The rest of the job is pretty straightforward.

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For the lower seal:

1 - Unscrew the belly pump drive dog from the shaft: Engage the PTO clutch, stick a big pipe wrench on the PTO shaft then catch the wrench handle on the drawbar to keep the shaft from turning. Now stick a suitable square bar lever in the drive dog slot, or grab the drive dog with another pipe wrench. Give the lever/wrench it a good tug and the drive dog should break free (the threads are right hand). Once free the drive dog should then spin easily the rest of the way off.

2 – Once the drive dog is off remove the (3) seal retainer cap screws and the retainer should slide easily off. You can then take the retainer in a vice and work the old seal out and press in the new one.

For the upper seal:

3 – Remove all (4) nuts and tapered bolts from the flex coupling. Note how the metal and rubber parts fit together for later reassembly!

4 – Now remove the cap screw and washer from the center of the input shaft. If you are luck the coupling half will slide right off the input shaft. However if it does not you can force it off by using a suitable socket as a spacer and assembling the socket between the coupling center plate(I used a ¾” socket if memory serves). Then use a couple 7/16” bolts and nuts thru the center plate and the coupling half and tighten the nuts evenly and equally to squeeze the socket against the end of the shaft. As the socket is squeezed the drive flange will be forced off the shaft.

5 – Once the coupling is off the seal retainer is again removed same as the lower one.

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Tip: The new seals will be about ½ the thickness of the ones you take out. This is OK. Simply push the seal in flush with the retainer. Or if the shaft is badly worn where the seal lip runs, push the seal in a bit further so the lip bears on an unworn section of shaft.

Good luck!

great instructions! do as he says and you will have them in, in no time.

Thank you very much for your detailed instructions, I ordered the new seals from CIH today and I'm waiting on the seals and hope to get the tractor back up and running as soon as they come in. Thanks
-David Goode