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Farmall 706 Transmission (H-L-N-R)

K

Koeppel

New User
Hi,

I just bought a 706 gasser and I"ve noticed that I often have trouble moving the H-L-N-R lever. I can shift between gears 1-4 without any trouble, but the lever to go into High or to bring it back down into Neutral seems impossible. Other times, it moves just fine.

I"ve noticed that it"s a little below the line for transmission oil, so I"m going to pick some up today and put that in. What I"m wondering is if I need to consider adjusting the transmission brake on the clutch as well, or if the problem could be related to some other adjustment that needs to be made.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Todd
 
Well first off that tractor doesnt have a trans brake on the clutch. So it is more than likely it has something to do with the shift linkage in the H-L-N-R shifter.
 
That is a trait of those. I have a diesel that we bought new. It is basically just about worn out. I am not much of a mechanic, but there are some on here. From what I understand there are rollers that run in grooves on the under side of the transmission cover. Those rollers and grooves wear out. I believe you can still get replacement covers and rebuild the shifter. You also get wear in all the linkage.

I just baby mine, and have gotton used to how it works. I do not let anyone else run it for safety reasons. It can be a little tricky to keep it in park. Therefore I dont trust the park and never park it on a slope. I also always lower the loader bucket, use that for an anchor.

Some of the smarter ones can come on and tell you exactly what is going one.

Good luck, Gene
 
My owner's manual says that approximately the last one-half inch of pedal movement engages the transmission brake. Under the troubleshooting guide, it says for difficulty shifting, to adjust the transmission brake.

The tractor vet mentions keeping the clutch trans brake and dump valve in adjustment on several 706 discussion threads.

Why do you say that I don't have a trans brake? How can I tell if I do or don't?
 
all 706, and for that matter all X06, X56, X66, X86 had transmission brake.

on the RH side of the clutch housing is a rod that runs diagonally back and down to the bottom of the speed trans. there is a clevis on one end that you screw in or out to adjust trans brake.

the problem you describe is common of the 06 shift linkage. the design is that very little movement makes shifting happen, so a little wear screws it all up. basically you just have to go through the whole thing from the handle down into the trans cover and replace/ rebuild as necessary to correct worn parts.

or, look in a salvage yard and change it over to the 56-66 style shifter.
 
You may want to go back thru the archives and look up on how to adjust the clutch the trans brake and the DUMP valve . When you have everything set correctly that tractor will shift with two fingers. When things are not set wright them you start yanking and jerking on the shifters and this will lead to BIGGER problems down the road . If you have a hard time understanding how to do this then let me know and i will walk you thru it .
 
Sometimes you have to bump the clutch pedal out a bit to give the trans a tourque release to let it shift. Run thru the adjustments but even with everything in perfect adjustment you have to give it a torque release from time to time. After you run it for awile you will get the hang of it. I can shift my 706 as fast as my 1066. Main thing is to never force it!
 
Thanks tractor vet. I have the owners manual and the service manual, so I'm going to give it a try. Is all of the linkage that needs to be adjusted on the outside of the clutch housing? None of the directions that I have discuss opening up the clutch housing or even removing the top panel in front of the steering wheel.
 
not sure as I haven't done it. my dad and uncle did both of our 806s. i know at least it involves replacing the 2 shifters, aluminum shift quadrant, RH steering column support (where the right front hyd outlets go- the new style doesn't have them there), new range trans top cover/shift forks. others would be more of an expert. One thing you could do is go on caseih.com and look up the parts manual for a 706 and compare to a 756 for the relevant areas.

every once in a while you see on ebay someone selling a "kit"- supposedly all the necessary parts to do the switch, taken from a salvage tractor. usually 3-400 bucks for used parts.

one note on this- the new style is a big improvement in that even with a fair amount of wear, it is possible to shift. HOWEVER, it will also wear out and become difficult. just a little more forgiving.
 
I went through the adjustment procedure for the clutch, dump valve, and trans brake. This really doesn't seem to help at all.

I would be surprised that it would help anyway since the problem occurs even when the tractor is off. I've been told that I should be able to shift through the gears, as well as shift the range lever while the tractor is sitting, not running, and without depressing the clutch.

I've also found that occasionally the 1-2-3-4 shifter gets stuck as well. None of it moves all that well even when it is working. I've tried lubricating all of the linkage that is outside of the transmission, but I'm starting to think that I'm going to have to go into the range cover and trans cover to locate the problem.

:cry:
 
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