First time trailering a H

What is the best way to tie down a H? I have access to a wide variety of chains, load binders and ratcheting tie down straps. My plan is to use two heavy duty (5000 lb) nylon ties through the rear wheels, pulling in opposite directions, and for the front I have a 6000 lb. nylon spreader. It has two legs with loops on the ends and the other ends terminate in a steel ring. I have 5/8” grade 8 bolts in the bolster implement mounting holes. The strap loops go over these bolts and I run a chain with a load binder from the steel ring to the trailer. Sound OK?

5,000 pound straps are a step up from the 3,300s, and will probably do fine, but I much prefer chains.

I'm not famliar with the spreader you describe, but for both ends (2x5,000 on the rear and 6,000 on the front) will be both legal and more than adequate for an H, properly secured to tractor and trailer.

Tying to the tractor whenever possible, and not the wheels, will also give you more downward force. Bind her down enough to squat the tires a little.

Grade 8s might be a little brittle in an emergency. 5s are better at giving before they break. But if you stress things enough to break a Grade 8, you'll already be in a real mess anyway. 5s in that case might serve only to limit the already considerable damage.

Happy Motoring and safe travels!

That's my two cents.

When I trailered my H some 15 years back, I used the drawbar on the rear, the axle housing would be my next choice.

On the front I had these Kent-Moore chain links which are really used for lifting/pulling automotive engines. It is a diamond shaped piece of steel plate approx 3/8" thick with two holes in it. Diamond-piece is bent approx 30 degrees, one hole has a large chain link thru it. So, I bolted these to the frame rails each side and then used my chains and binders from there.

Grade 8s don't concern me (over the choice for Gr 5) as much as the fact that they're good and tight. Generally tight bolts don't break and loose ones are just a matter of time. I would use extreme caution with using any eyebolt, even with a shoulder, unless you are positive it will be loaded only axially. A swivelling hoist ring would probably be "best practice" in industrial rigging practice but not sure how the DOT feels about this.

Last piece of advice is when using any nylon straps from 2" to 4" wide is to make sure they don't/can't contact any sharp edges, even when vibrating in the wind. A nylon strap, while extremely strong, will get incrementally cut faster than you can believe it, cordura sleeves are available although a number of other things can substitute, old carpet scraps are a favorite, old jeans, old bath mats, kevlar gloves, you get the idea.

I trailer both my SH and SM several times a year. Here’s how I tie ‘em down:

1 – Stick a 14,000 lb capacity anchor shackle in the tractor's drawbar hole. From the shackle run a 3/8” chain to each rear corner of the trailer.

2 – In the front I have a pair of 5/8” forged eyebolts permanently attached to front frame side rails just behind the bolster. From each eyebolt run a 10K lb rachet strap to the front corner of the trailer.

3 – Run both rachet straps equally and evenly until the rear chains are good and tight.

4 – Finally I run another 10K lb rachet strap from the middle of the trailer across the top of the cluch housing (route the strap beneath the starter) then down to the other side of the trailer. Tighten this strap down so the tires are pooched out a little, then take another click or two on each of the front straps.

With this arrangement the tractor becomes one with the trailer – always rides nice and secure.

Use chains and binders. The D.O.T. does not like straps.

Chains only, no straps on something that heavy -- people do it, but not me.

Just to add: I always use 4 chains for a wheeled vehicle...but have also supplemented with straps where necessary.

The gold plated chains (officially G70) are preferable

And don"t forget to secure the sheet metal.
NOTHING will ruin your day faster then a hood passing you at 70 MPH.. and they always seem to land painted side down...

Been there done that ;-)
Ken B

I use 4" nylon straps with chain leaders, one on each corner for my tractors, and one is 12,500 lbs. They are easier on the tractor and easier to use. Just don't let them rub on anything. I'm amazed how carelessly some people haul their tractors- I was at the Historic Farm Days show yesterday in Penfield, Il. A semi was loading in front of my tractors- he had a Huber, an Avery, a spoker D, and I think a Rumley all on the same trailer. Big money rare tractors, to say the least. One 5/16" chain on each end of each tractor. If he loses one chain, all he!! breaks loose. I wouldn't haul a $500 tractor that way.