Farmall H : rotor will not line up with cap

They certainly can. Place the engine at TDC on compression stroke. Make sure it is pushing air out the spark plug hole as it comes up.
Use a piece of soft (copper) wire to feel the piston at TDC.
align the timing marks on the front pulley.
Open the distributor cap and check the rotor position. It can be anywhere and work, but the normal location is with the rotor pointing to the 1:30 position (looking from behind). This should be #1. Next is #3 in Clockwise rotation. Then #4, then #2.
The distributor can be removed and reset, but unless this was done by someone, the above should be OK. If it is way off, the timing gears can be broken, or the keyway stripped. Check compression to see if it is in the 100psi range. If way off, the gears are suspect. Especially if there is a hydraulic pump on the distributor drive. There are better gears available, SH, 300 or 350 gear sets are stronger. JimN
 
I did every thing that you just suggested (didn't put a gauge on to check compression) yesterday and the rotor sits between the # 1 and # 3 spot on cap @ TDC
 
If it was running, and isn't. and no one messed with it, I do suspect gears (especially if there is a live pump. (they can go bad even with no pump on the gear) Check the compression if low, it is likely the gear/s Replacement means pulling off the front Bolster (casting) to get the front engine cover off. JimN
 
Does it still run? If it has a distributor check the timing with a timing light to see if its off. If its off rotate the distributor until the timing marks are aligned. Bring No1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke then see if the
rotor is aligned with No1 plug wire. Hal
 
tractor does nto have a pump, the tractor was running and it started to miss out and it got turned off. know the tractor won't fire. Are there gears inside the distributor?
 
Scott - A couple other things to look at before you begin tearing into the engine:

1 - The distributor centrifugal advance may be stuck in the "full advance" position. The rotor should rotate about 15 - 20 deg clockwise with a light twist of the fingers and spring back when released. If it does not go inside the distributor and look for broken advance springs and/or a frozen flyweight and cam mechanism.

2 - Someone had the distributor apart and didn't properly re-time the distributor drive shaft to the distributor gear when they put it back together. (Gears are inside the housing where the distributor mounts)

Good luck!
 
In the small housing that the distributor is attached to, there are gears. These can fail They are 2:1 reduction gears. If the distributor centrifugal advance weights or springs fail, it can jamb, breaking teeth. (worth a look) They have alignment marks. and need to be correct. If they are good, it may be that the advance mechanism is toast in the distributor. Dis assemble it (point backing plate first) to look/see. JimN
 
Are you sure your problem is in the distributor? An engine that"s missing could also be caused by stuck valves, or a valve push rod that worked its way out from under the rocker arm.

This happened to me on a rebuilt H engine with less than 50 hrs....
 
You need to check that timing gear. Here's the procedure from my manual. Take pictures, make sketches and take notes. They will come in handy during reassembly. Hal
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You say tractor was running so this is probably not the case, but , I have seen a jillion of these battery ignigion units (IH style) where some one used a screw to hold stationary point that was too long and it just tears heck out of inside of distributor, sometimes striping the gears, shearing the pins securing distribtor gear, and tearing up the whole advance mechanism. Also, have seen just rusted shaft in distributor causing pin to partially shear. You need to pull distributor and work your way inward to determine problem. Could be most any of the things others have suggested.
 
Scott, I just run into the same problem. Really had me going for a while. Check your OLD moveable point arm with the new one. Must be the new style Chineese CNH points. The cam block is on backwards. Hav'nt tried to see if it cn be turned around yet. Hope this helps.

Ted
 
I think before you go tearing the engine apart you need to take the dist. apart check the dist drive gear i have had to replact three of them over the years
 
(quoted from post at 05:17:25 07/10/09) Scott, I just run into the same problem. Really had me going for a while. Check your OLD moveable point arm with the new one. Must be the new style Chineese CNH points. The cam block is on backwards. Hav'nt tried to see if it cn be turned around yet. Hope this helps.

Ted

The difference between the four cylinder movable arm and the six cylinder movable arm it the way the rubber block is installed. It sounds like you got the wrong one. Also, the six cylinder adjustable contact has a curve where the four cylinder one is just "L" shaped.
 

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