flames coming out of exhaust manifold farmall m

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tasha w

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i just tuned up my tracktor and had the carburator rebuilt and now flames are shooting out the exhaust manifold. any ideas why?
 
Sounds like the timing got retarded somehow,now the fuel is burning in the manifold instead of the cylinders. Bet theres a noticeable loss of power too. Joe
 
i would like to start with the simple. how do you unlean the gas? could it be as simple as turning it down? i have owned my farmall for years and never had to adjust anything or fix anything on it till now. the jets were never replaced. maybe they need to be adjusted? also where would i look for the vacuum leak?
 
Not running at night are you? When we were plowing or working it hard after dark you could see a bit of a flame. I have seen the manifold glowing also. But that was back when we work them and us hard.

Gene
 
if you dont have an exhuast pipe or muffler on it that is perfectly normal when working it.such little info. you gave. thats like i didnt tie my shoe lace and i fell down.
 
tasha, i"d go back over the tune up first, recheck everything. check breaker point gap just to be sure. recheck the plug wires for correct firing order. next re-check the ignition timing. the m is timed "static" ie engine off. set the timing indicator pointer at zero, top dead center, then use a test lite to set the distributor so the points just open. that should get you in the ball park. next set the carb. idle circuit is about 1 and one half turns open. for the main jet, start at about 3 and 1-2 turns open. start tractor and let it warm up, say 5 or 10 minutes. open throttle wide open, then adjust main jet out till tractor starts running rough, about 3-4 to one full turn, then go back in to where it settles down and smooths out. kind of a sweet spot. see if that takes care of the problem. if not, then pull the distributor cap, and gently turn the rotor and see if it snaps back. if it does, the advance springs are working. if it doesnt, the distributor timing is not advancing and that can be your problem. last, to check for a vacuum leak, with the tractor running, spray some carb cleaner around the carb gaskets, and also where the manifold bolts to the engine. do this outside, and have a garden hose handy if the carb cleaner ignites. if the engine changes sound when you are spraying, that is where your vacuum leak is.
 
Like Gene said, wide open at dusk or night you can see flame only if they are set up right. And I am talking about out the top of the muffler.

How much flame and under what operating conditions? It may be A-OK.
 
What do you mean by "flames coming out of exhaust manifold?"

The exhaust manifold is the cast iron piece that bolts to the side of the engine. The exhaust pipe screws into the top of it, and the muffler sits on the exhaust pipe.

Where are the flames coming out? Are they coming out of the side of the engine, or shooting up out of the exhaust pipe or muffler?

How do you know there is no loss of power? What kind of work does the tractor do? You can't tell if there's loss of power just driving it around the yard.

Just a piece of advice here: You won't be able to fix this tractor on your own unless you "bone up" on the basics of how engines work. I learned by reading a Time Life book on small engine repair at my local library when I was a teenager. Then you'll know what "lean" means, and that the opposite of lean is "richen," not unlean, for example. You'll know the difference between a muffler and an exhaust manifold. You'll know what a governor does. You'll know how timing affects how an engine runs.
 
Just where is the flame coming from? The manifold has a pipe in the top, flame stays inside. Internal to the manifold, there will be flame. The muffler will quench most of it except in very hot, hard full load conditions. JimN
 
Yeah, we took the exhaust pipe off to replace it, so before we had the new one we fired it up, flames were shooting out of the EXHAUST MANIFOLD maby 2 inches. so we adjusted the main jet adjusting screw and got the flame down to about 1 inch. after that, we adjusted the governor as the shop manual showed. still flames. also we still can't quite get the engine to throttle down right away when we put the operators hand lever in slow speed position. It will slow down but takes 15 to 20 seconds after we pull the hand lever any advice?
 
The only time I have seen flame out of my SM, the 300 or 400 was when they backfire, even with the muffler off to get them in the barn.
 
thank you all so much for your help, but now we have a new problem. our throttle keeps sticking open. in the connecting rod housing i see the (adjusting block?), and when we pull the hand lever to open throttle the adjusting block goes up, but then I have to manually push it back down other wise it stays open.... any suggestions? and once again thank you all so much
 

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