Hello I rebuilt my H> it has new sleeves,new dome pistons,rings> 6 volt positive ground,new wiring,new coil,new battery,new 2 gauge cables,new starter switch, all the connections are clean and tight. All that to say it will only turn over once on a new fully charged battery>if i am lucky it starts and runs great>if i miss that 1st try i have to push start it>and if i shut it down it won't trun over again> only have about two hours of run time on new rebuild.Any ideas? does it need to be broke in> too much compression? would apprecite any thoughts P.S the starter switch, Cables and coil are always warm after 1st try Thanks
- Thread starter SRH
- Start date
Farmall Bob09
Member
try 00guage cables
gene bender
Well-known Member
The 2ga cables arent big enough get at least 1ga and have the starter checked out and rebuilt mite be cheaper to get a rebuilt one from Harvey Bros or a new on for around 150 then you will be good to go. The tractor started when it was new and it will again but things have to be in new condition.
Bob M
Well-known Member
As the others have pointed out you need 2/0 cables with crimped and soldered (not clamped!) terminals.
If the engine still cranks slow with the heavier cables the component in the starter circuit that gets noticably warm while cranking is the problem.
Most likely culprits are the starter switch and the point where the ground cable bolts to the frame. However if the cranking circuit stays cool then it's the starter that needs attention.
If the engine still cranks slow with the heavier cables the component in the starter circuit that gets noticably warm while cranking is the problem.
Most likely culprits are the starter switch and the point where the ground cable bolts to the frame. However if the cranking circuit stays cool then it's the starter that needs attention.
Siefring Red Farmer
Member
Had a similar thing on a 300. Changed power cable, added a new dedicated ground from bat to the starter, tried a new starter. None of that ever fixed the problem. I was able to measure the amperage during starting, was getting over 500amps, it seems that is locked rotor amperage for the starter.
Finally broke down and converted to 12V. $80 for the alternator, I used the electronic ignition so $120 for that, about $40 for misc other stuff(lights and stuff). Now she fires right up, almost before you turn the switch.
Finally broke down and converted to 12V. $80 for the alternator, I used the electronic ignition so $120 for that, about $40 for misc other stuff(lights and stuff). Now she fires right up, almost before you turn the switch.
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy