1946 Farmall A rear hitch

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I am looking to purchase a 1946 Farmall A. The owner stated this concerning what's there in the rear: "There has been a three point started it may need adjusted to work and maybe some welding and a lift I just have too many tractors is why I have not messed with it".
What I would like to do with the tractor is to pull a brush hog with it using the pto, and use a rear blade attached to the hitch for some chores around our place. It doesn't have any hydrolics currently. The owner said I would have to put on a pump and cylinder to be able to raise and lower it. Cost is key with me. I would like to be able to get this usable as cheaply as possible. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
My guess from way out here in left field is that the previous owner's "lightbulb" went on when he realized how the bushhog could be centered with the tractor but the PTO shaft would be offset at a very serious angle.

IMHO, lack of rockshaft hydraulics is not making this any easier.

My respectful thoughts are that the path of greatest success and least cost is to sell this tractor and get another one better equipped for what you want to do.
 
I haven't bought the tractor yet. It sounds like a good deal with the head gasket replaced and dipped and it runs well. I was hoping it could be used for what I need it for, but if not, oh well.
 
There is no problem with a bush hog that has its own wheels you just hook the hitch to the hole under the pto shaft. You dont need a three pt bush hog anyway with the rear wheels it will follow just fine. We used one on a B and it worked fine.
 
There is no problem with a bush hog that has its own wheels you just hook the hitch to the hole under the pto shaft. You dont need a three pt bush hog anyway with the rear wheels it will follow just fine. We used one on a B and it worked fine.
 
Farmall A: If you don't have hydraulics, it willcost you $1,500. to put a 3 point hitch on a Farmall A. Is that cheap enough?
 
That's not exactly cheap when I'm getting the tractor for around $1,000. If I could figure out a way to have a system for raising and lowering an attachment like a blade by hand, like a crank or something I wouldn't need hydrolics.

Thanks for the info gene. Sound like a bush hog wouldn't be a problem.
 
Farmall A: Since bush hog wouldn't be a problem, you can perhaps do something cheaper than a 3 point hitch for the blade. Fabricate a pivot that bolts to U type drawbar, with provission for lower link pins of blade to pivot in. Then run a cable from top link, under the platform to a boat winch mounted to clutch housing, or one of the A hand levers. I saw another novel idea, guy had a reduction gear box with a lever for pulling cable to lift blade and a wheel on the input shaft much like the old road graders. He had separate controls for each side of blade.

Go look at both old and modern road grader, it will give you numerous ideas. Don't modify the blade, you may have a 3 point hitch tractor sometime.
 
You can mount a CHAR-LYNN power pac system on the belt pulley then using the up side of a two way cycl to lift a blade by putting the cycl in place of the third link. I have used one on a B for many yrs. The system has single and two way hy with built in control valves and pum and resivour all in one unit. Only need to run them 700 rpm 10gal flow and 1000 psi real neat units. I use two of them on two tractors split wood raise the wheel disc,loader,front corn planter or anythin needing hy system.
 

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