A Few Questions For Jim N or Those Who May Know...

Absent Minded Farmer

Well-known Member
Is the 30 or 40 amp fuse supposed to be installed before or after the amp meter? Is the 30 amp gauge on the dash appropriate for my application? Are there any other troubles or tricks I should know about? I may venture into Rad Shack, later. Is there a good volt meter I should be looking at while I'm there? I'd like something I can use in the garage as well as in the basement for my train layout. Thanks - Mike
 
I'm in the midst of a 12v conversion on my 400. Jim N & Brownie 450 mentioned a circut breaker, of some kind, in line with the alt & amp meter. Please see my post about the electrically fascinating 400 on pg. 2 of the IH forum.
 
I would install the fuse before the ammeter. A 30 amp ammeter will be fine under ordinary circumstances, but if the alternator is rated at more than 30 amps (most are) and the regulator goes bad and allows the alternator output to reach its maximum, it may fry the gauge. I would probably leave the 30 amp ammeter installed, and replace it with a 60 amp if it goes bad.
 
I have always used a 37 amp Delco on conversions I have done. I use a 30 amp breaker & have never tripped one out. You would have to have a completely dead --or close-- battery to get even a 63 amp alternator to open a 40 amp breaker. Using a little common sense on engine speed after a difficult start will limit charging to a safe level. Let the battery charge for a minute at low idle, & you can see the charge rate taper back.
 
I musta missed that discussion, but I dont think I would fuze or install a circuit breaker between the alternators output and the battery (via the ammeter). The alternators output wires to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter while the ammeters other Supply terminal wires to the battery often where the big cable atatches to a starter solenoid/switch. If I were going to fuze anything Id place a fuze or circuit breaker (to protect the wiring) on the ammeters load terminal where it goes out to feed loads like lights. You can fuze the ignition feed also if you like if its in an easy to get to location cuz you dont want to blow a fuze and she not still run and its hard to get to.

A 30 amp ammeter is okay for an alternator use, I prefer a 20 amp if its a genny for better resolution. I dont see any great need for a voltmeter but it wont hurt if you just gotta have one.

John T
 
I musta missed that discussion, but I dont think I would fuze or install a circuit breaker between the alternators output and the battery (via the ammeter). The alternators output wires to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter while the ammeters other Supply terminal wires to the battery often where the big cable atatches to a starter solenoid/switch. If I were going to fuze anything Id place a fuze or circuit breaker (to protect the wiring) on the ammeters load terminal where it goes out to feed loads like lights. You can fuze the ignition feed also if you like if its in an easy to get to location cuz you dont want to blow a fuze and she not still run and its hard to get to.

A 30 amp ammeter is okay for an alternator use, I prefer a 20 amp if its a genny for better resolution. I dont see any great need for a voltmeter but it wont hurt if you just gotta have one.

John T
 
If a fuse link or Circuit breaker blows, it can (and has) taken the alternator with it. (the control volts go wild and it can self destruct) If the serious protection of the alternator is needed, a 18 or 20 volt high amp (like 50) zener diode can be put at the output stud to ground. (I would not bother) The reason for the circuit protection is to prevent an electrical fire that would destroy the tractor. This is a simplified solution, but will probably be controversial. JimN
 

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