1940 Farmall A Conversion to Electric Start???

Anything can be converted. The question is how much is involved. With your very low serial number, there's a good chance the bell on your torque tube is not cast and machined to allow you to just remove the cover plate and bolt and wire up a starter.

If not, the conventional way is to buy a replacement torque tube that will take a starter and go from there.

Are there any other electrics on the tractor?
 
There are no other electrics. It does not have the tube like my B, that is made to accept the starter. Yes, I know it requires other electrical systems to go electric( generator, regulator,switches, wiring, on and on.
But my wrist is KILLING me!!!
Pirkey
 
Well, then, replacing the torque tube and wiring things up ought to be a nice little project! And doubly rewarding, from the sounds of things! Might be a chore tracking down a torque tube and, if you're into having the original look, the switch, ammeter and especially the box for them, but all entirely doable. I see someone has already chimed in with an offer of parts.

Just remember, before adding a starer, the advice of one of my grandmothers -- If God had meant for man to have television, He'd have put screens on radios.

Happy wrenchin'!
 
If you like the look and originality of the tractor, make a "indy" starter that uses a 3/4" electric drill and a long pipe to reach the ground to start it with 120vac. Much easier, and the drills are cheap. Just make a short adapter that fits the chuck of the drill with 3 flats, and has the crank socket on the end. The only grief is stopping it where there is no 120, JimN
 
If it"s that much a problem, why don"t you trade it for a slightly newer model.....say anything made in the 1950s! They are cheap to buy and few steps out of the dark ages so far as convenience is concerned......meaning they have electric start and usually hydraulics......there"s still a pile of Super A"s on the market.
 
The flywheel probably isn't machined for a ring gear. If it has the original fan hub, there probably is no pulley for a generator belt. You will probably need to change out these parts along with the bell housing, then add all the electrical conmponents.
 
I have already installed 4 new tires and had the motor overhauled. It is nearly ready for me to paint after a few more days of prep. It is more for looking at and restoring than anything as practical as USING!! I have a restored 51 Cub and a restored Farmall B if I need to use one.
It has started good up until today. I installed some radiator leak stop and ran it for 30 minutes, killed it by cutting off the gas, as I usally do, as no kill wire is on it and started it again, having forgotten to turn the gas back on, it ran about a minute then ran out of gas again and would not start again. I ASSUME THERE IS TRASH IN THE CARB IS WHY IT WILL NOT CRANK!!
Pirkey
 
Why...that ought to be an easy fix, really. I rarely hand crank my SA.....but on occasion, when feeling lucky.....I do it. Generally it hits on the first yank. Yours probably would too as long as it gets fuel, air and spark.......at the right time.
 
We used a 3/4" drill to start bailer and combine engines. They spin fine, and the drill will spin them enough to clear flooding on a heat soaked engine. We used a 4' pipe. Indianapolis Race Cars used AC hand held starters for many years (They still may do so) JimN
 
You are correct. My A has not been a problem until yesterday when I ran it 30 minutes to disburse the STOP LEAK. It kicked back and dang near broke my wrist. I know this kickback has been going on since their inception as older farmers talk of it.
Do I need to tear down the carb or just wait and try it in a day or two to see if it was just flooded??
Pirkey
 
Please lose the NET.SPAZZ routine. This is not that important or exciting.

It won't restart because you ran all the gas out of the carb and the engine. Until the carb fills with gas again, it won't start. Usually that only takes a few seconds after you open the fuel shutoff. You'll probably have to choke the carburetor to get a fuel-air charge back into the engine so it will start.

Maybe the carb needs to be cleaned. I dunno. If you think it does, then do it.
 
Sure you can, that is easiest. I would sure do it if I had an extra crank. Chopping the only crank is serious reduction in potential.
The torque reaction of the engine backfiring is still the same as it is for a crank. A long lever, screwed into the drill motor, with the other end against the ground, or set on a saw horse, prevents bodily harm. It works great, it is very powerful, and will twist up your arms in a flash if not controlled, or kicks back. JimN
 

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