Super C: Two Questions

Smith1000

Member
My regular sickle bar mower is not working right now, so I am using a spare behind a Super C. I am waiting for a belt and the regular mower is on a Super MTA. I have had this Super C a few years, but have not really used it much. It has been rebuilt and repainted. Using it to cut hay has really worked out well because the C glides along, doesn"t miss a beat and the spare mower has been working great. It really is dropping the brome well and the C is very easy to handle, etc.

I noticed on hills, though, that the governor does not seem to increase the engine speed as it should, so I downshift. I adjusted the governor some time ago because it was surging. How do I adjust the governor to compensate for the additional pull? It does not seem to be responding properly.

Also, I have a 3 point on it that hooks to the cultivator lift arms. I have noticed that the hydraulic fluid is very hot (when I checked the level). Is this a sign of a problem? The fluid seems hotter than it should be. It lifts okay, but I need to idle it up to lift it all of the way up.

Thanks for any input.
 
The only time that our SC overheated the hydraulics was when the remote lever got accidentally stuck in the raise position. Could be that your 3-point has a valve sticking or some other place that is making the hydraulic pump work too much.
The governor thing---have you checked for binding in the throttle rod going between the governor arm & the carb at the wide- open position? Could be lack of fuel at wide-open throttle.
 
The governor should not INCREASE the engine speed. It should maintain the same engine speed, unless the combination of load, gear, and field conditions exceed the power output of the engine. Then it will lug down, and you will have to shift.

Your problem could be simple: The combination of running the mower and going up the hill could require more power than the engine can produce.

A non-working governor would show up every time you let out the clutch to move the tractor.

Did you turn the screw in the bottom of the governor? It could be that you turned it in too much to stop the surging.
 
I like mkirsch's idea about the possibility over-adjusting the surge screw. I'd start there. And he's absolutely right. The governor doesn't speed your engine up when your load changes - it merely adjusts the fuel to maintain the engine speed, which makes all the sounds of speeding up when it adds gas.

On the hydraulics, they shouldn't consistently run in the hot range. Besides your valve for the remote, you should check out your two levers for the rockshafts. What will cause the over heating is continuous high pressure operation. An example would be if things are adjusted in such a way that when you pull one of the main levers to the rear the pump doesn't fall back to low pressure when the arm hits it limit. So it keeps on pumping at high pressure but it can't move anything. So you have to use your stop clips to set a higher lower limit, i.e., so you can't pull the lever all the way to the rear. And you could have the same sort of problem on the upper end of those levers or, as suggested, with your remote valve sticking.

The shop manual for the Touch Control explains pretty methodically how to set the stop clips up to avoid such a thing. Without having a gauge, it basically involves listening -- if you have both levers in the middle of their range so that the arms can move either direction from there, you should hear some whine from the TC box and pump when you move them. The noise should stop when the arms have finished moving. If you pull a lever all the way to the rear and the whine continues after it stops, move the lever ahead until it does stop, and set your stop clip so that that lever can't move behind that point.

The Operator's Manual only talks about using the clips for limiting the height or depth of an implement, but the shop manual for the T/C unit talks about using them as I described. The Operator's Manual also talks just briefly about overheating with the T/C levers on the upper end of the throw (They use the example of setting the levers to a position that would lift the implement higher than it can go, because it hits the bottom of the tractor) so that the unit can't finish cycling and stays on high pressure, same phenomenon as I describe but on the top side.
 
The Operator's Manual only talks about using the clips for limiting the height or depth of an implement, but the shop manual for the T/C unit talks about using them as I described.
The shop manual uses those stops as part of the procedure for limiting movement of the Touch-Control arns. But the limits are actually set with the stops near the front edge of the block. If you have a parts catalog handy, look up part 351696R1.
 
Ayuh! Step 10 in the book. I see it now.

I had a bit of a time as my SuperC parts book has a different number, but it's pretty plain.
 
I understand what you are saying. I noticed when the lever is up all of the way, it groans somewhat. I will lower the lever an inch or so and the groaning will cease and there will be more engine power. I just need to adjust the stop clips. That is why the hydraulic fluid is hot.

I probably did turn the screw too far for the governor adjustment. I will adjust it tomorrow. It is not maintaining idle speed as is. On level ground, this is not a problem, but climbing gradually, in heavy brome, it does not maintain engine speed- yet it does not really seem to be lugging. I will down shift and continue, but the engine speed does not seem to improve. It seems as if the governor is not responding.

These replies are a tremendous helps. Thanks.
 
I got my stops adjusted on the hydraulic lift. I attempted to adjust the governor screw, but it seems to make no difference. If I pull the governor rod (link to carb) forward manually, it will accelerate the engine. When going up a long hill, I leaned out and watched the governor link to the carb and it does not move, so the governor is not functioning. Would this be the weights or spring?
 

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