oil for Farmall B

Hello all,

Thanks in large part to your encouragement, I just took delivery of my 1941 Farmall B.

There are larger versions of the pictures at:
http://www.rossputin.com/tractor1.htm (the same link as at the end of this note)

I have a few quick questions for the experts:

1) How can I tell if it's a BN? On the serial number tag, the model says "B", but the serial number seems to start with "FABN" although the "N" is questionable as it's slightly fainter and has a mark across it that makes it look a little like an "X". I'll try to post a picture soon.

2) What oil should I use? Where I live it usually doesn't get above high 70's in the summer, it's typically 40's-60's in spring and fall, and winter can have 0 degree days though teens to twenties is more typical. I do plan to use it on occasion to plow snow in winter. Is there an oil I can put in that will work for all seasons, or should I expect to have to change oil between summer and winter? Also, should I follow the guidance to use "non-detergent" oil even though the tractor has an oil filter?

3) Any advice on coolant?

4) Should I add "lead substitute" to the unleaded gasoline?

I'm sure there will be more later, but thanks in advance for your thoughts and your encouragement!

Thanks!

Ross



Rosss 1941 Farmall B

automotive 10-40 or 15-40 diesel grade will both be fine oils. The modern oils are so much better than the oil of its birth, that there is no issue. Multi Wt. oils are good.
The coolant should be either the yellow, or the universal style antifreeze 50/50 with clean (distilled is best) water.
Do not use the gas additives at all. Just not needed. There is no record of these engines having issues with unleaded or 10% Ethanol.
B tractors have about 4 inches from the right seat support to the fender on the right. The BN has the seat bracket on the fender directly.
JimN

1)The main distinction between a B and BN is the widdth of the tractor, which varied by the length of the differential shaft housings, the castings between the transmission and the final drives. On a BN, those are 18" on each side, and on a B 22". This leads to other differences such as the operator/seat platform being only about 18" wide on the BN. And, if you don't have a tape with you, the easiest thing to spot is the right-hand seat support. On a BN, the right seat support is bolted to the flange on the end of the shaft housing, pretty much the same way the left bracket mounts to the tranny. On a B, the right support is mounted to a bracket that is bolted the platform. This applies as long as you have the standard seat supports, which yours appears to have. I agree, the serial number looks a little weird, the way it was stamped. How does the numerical part compare with the number on the motor?

2) Any good multigrade, 10-30 or 10-40 will be fine. Some folks swear by the 15-40 formulated for diesels, adn you can use straight 30, as well. Do a search on oil on this board and you'll find all sorts of long-winded threads about it, and even the detergent/non-detergent question. Bottom line it's your choice.

3) Coolant. Test whatever's in there, and go from there. If you don't have a tester, you can try to drain some into a jar and take to a garage, but there's a good chance the drain pipe is plugged with sediment. That will have to dealt with at some point anyway. Can't hurt and might help to just drain it, flush it and change it out with new, mixed at 50/50 using distilled water.

4) If this were a high-temp high-compression engine you might could maybe justify a lead substitute. It's not either of those. Plain old unleaded from the pump will do just fine. What I would recommend is that you keep your fuel tank fairly full if you're not going to work it regularly, just to cut down on the condensation.

And do get yourself at least the Operator's
Manual. Well worth the price for the maintenance, safety and operation information.

Happy Motoring!

Hi there,

Where on the motor do I look for another number???

Thanks!
RGK

Right hand side, just below the #1 (front) sprakplug, at the top edge of the crankcase, you'll find a spot that has been machined flat. It may be covered in oil and dirt, and it will be partially obscured by the control rod for the governot that passes across it, but there is a number stamped in that spot. As they came off the assembly line, that number was the same as the number on the chassis.

That was amusing! I was speculating over whether the outside seat mount was bolted to the axle (As in a BN) as I scrolled down to the next picture and caught sight of the blade. My immediate reaction was to say out loud, "oh my gosh! that's so cool!" This brought my wife and daughter in from the other room and we all sat and analyzed how your blade must operate with the two handles, etc. You have a very nice little tractor there! Sometimes I think our B is my favorite tractor. Lot of good folk here can help you with that one. JimN, Scotty, Gene Bender and Hugh McKay all where of great help to me on ours...to name just a few. I hope you have as much fun with yours as we have had with ours. What does the future hold for yours?

Hi Dave,

So the blade is just attached to one handle and you have to be pretty strong to lift the thing! I'll probably use that for some snow plowing and some driveway grading.

Other than that, the tractor won't get lots of serious use. More just messing around. The bit of serious use it gets will probably be pulling a wagon to move wood around the property. We live on nearly 40 acres which is mostly forest and we cut trees occasionally for forest management purposes (and then need to move the wood so we can put it in the fireplace.)

It's mostly going to be a fun project.

can I use 10 W40 in my farmall B?

(quoted from post at 10:13:44 06/27/19) can I use 10 W40 in my farmall B?

Click to expand...

Yep! See above. ScottyHOMEeY just covered that.

Whoops! Didn't realize that was an old thread. If you're on 18th century classic view you might not be able to see that. Go to modern view and read it.