Installing JOY STICK ON 706 I.H.

I am thinking seriously Considering having my son install a 2 Spool 25 gpm joystick valve with 55" cables after he rebuilds the cab for our 706.
What I am wondering is it possible to do the install without cutting Hyd hoses through the cab.My son has done a truly magificent job on rebuilding the 706 and as soon as the cab and loader is attached the valve will be the finishing touch.After the cab is refinished and installed two questions remain. Where can the valve be located?2.Can the valve unit be installed with out drastic configuration of the location of the hoses? Thanks in advance to all who can point me in the right direction.LOU

I spliced into the system on my 1962 Farmall 504 between the pump and flow divider. Works great but the loader valve gets priority over the rest of the system. This only means that if you have a spool open it has priority over the steering. It has not been an issue for me. This is a "power beyond, open center" system.

If this concerns you, then yes you would have to cut into the steel lines and/or hoses under/inside cab. I did mine this way so I could just remove the short 3/4" hose from the pump to the diverter valve and run my In/Out lines.

In/Out lines for power beyond.


Loader Valve (Open Station). Yours would be under the cab connected via cables.


Return line to filler plug at IPTO.



Enjoy,

Charles

Charles,Thanks for the pictures and comments.
However your pic indicate No cab. It also looks like the 3 spool valves are mounted to the loader arm.The 706 has hyd ports to both sides and 2 at the rear. It would not be necessary to split steel line for a hook up. The question is wheather WE have to have the lines for the
Joy Stick operation going through the cab.I was hoping that the only lines would be the cables from the joy stick. The 706 has the open style valves allowing us to use a Joy Stick cables rather then the valve that are already on the tractor.
There is a lot of glass on the cab itself,so not certain if it at all possible. Guess time will tell when the cab is finished and installed.
I was just hoping for information from one of the real smart individuals who has such a confiruration in operation.
Any way Charles I realy do appreciate your time and pictures. LOU

Lou: Better not mount that cab until you have your hyd. plumbing figured out. With cable-controled valves the valves can be mounted anywheres on the tractor frame or loader frame that you want them. The only thing inside the cab should be the joystick assy. and the cables. With 55 in. of cable you should be ok on cable length. You may have to do your plumbing under the floorboard of the cab. I know how the Farmall 560D. is plumbed and I can get power-beyond by tapping into the pressure line as it comes out of the main pump. Where is the hyd. pump located on your tractor? Please let us know how this ends but be sure to figure out the plumbing before you mount the cab because this should be able to be accomplished with no hoses inside the cab. Armand

Dose your 504 have two hyd. pumps mounted like the 460/560? I noticed that you have a small line and a large line coming from the pump. Are they both pressure lines The small line on my 560 feeds the power steering from a dedicated pump and the larger pressure line feeds all other hyd. If the small line is not dedicated to the powersteering and is a pressure line what dose it supply? Thankyou for your help. Armand

Lou: You talk about 2 side remotes and one rear remote. Do you have one or two levers plus the 3point hitch controls now to the right side of your seat? If you hook a remote cylinder to each of the side ports and to the rear port(requires 3 cylinders to run this test) one lever will control the rear remote cylinder and the other lever should control the two side remote cylinders. If a one lever system all 3 remotes will be controlled. You can add a second valve body by taking pressure from one of the remotes and tying the approiate control back to supply pressure for the added valve assy. The best way to add a second valve assy. is th either split a pressure line between the pump and orignal equipmentvalve and hook the added valve in series or find a true power beyond port. The Tractor Vet. watches this forum and should have the best answers as He works on this series tractors. If he don't answer put a special post asking for him. Armand

Alright LOU from WI, I guess you are a little green around here. Be careful judging a book by the cover. You obviously do not know a 504 and a 706 are in the same family of tractors and share many similar features. Also you did not read my post carefully. Before you read further, re-read you post then you will understand why I wrote the following......

I gave you the info you needed to plumb in the hydraulics as a power beyond setup. Google that if you have trouble deciphiring it. You could also install a power beyond plate on your existing in-cab valve bank but would put lines inside. The way I showed you keeps the lines out side the cab. On a cable operated joystick, the VALVE IS OUTSIDE THE CAB, the cables are connecting the VALVE to the JOYSTICK INSIDE. The object here is to control the loader INDEPENDENTLY of the REAR AND SIDE REMOTES. This allows you to tie in your 2 spool loader valve then plumb to loader and control it from the little bubble on top the 706 called a cab without running anything but a Morse cable thru the floor while retaining full use of the factory remotes. I have 4 of 5 of mine in use right now. 2 on the loader and 2 on a round baler with hydrualic tie.

Finally, My 504 has two remotes under the tank and two sets on the rear, operated by the ORIGINAL dual remote valves. I added the 3 spool valve strictly for the loader and a future grapple or hydraulic post hole auger. I have a total of 5 VALVES. Also for your info, the 3 spool tower is mounted where the right step was located, not on the loader frame.

So now, ask one of the SMART PEOPLE ON HERE.

Armand, I have dual pumps. There is a 17 GPM for the steering (though the diverter = 3.5 GPM of the 17) the remaining flow goes to the remotes, and a 4.5 GPM for the 3 point. The 4.5 is dedicated to the lift and utilizes the smaller line, good eye!

Enjoy!

Charles

Kind of late with any information here but will add some anyway. The 706 hydraulics are all internally ported to the hitch and aux valves so even if you want you cannot cut into a line to divert to another valve bank. Your choices are to go with a power beyond end cap on aux valve bank or like previous poster said, just hook into your aux valve port and tie it back. If you need to use that valve for some other purpose some times then you have another seperate issue. You can install a diverter valve if you like. Using a power beyond will entail a hose inside cab and using existing aux valve will not.

Charles. Thank you for the additional Info. You are so correct to point out That I am an Old (green)fellow without any experience with tractors. However My son drives Steigers for a local farmer every year for the past 6 years. The main reason We bought a 706 was to use for gathering fire wood and to plow around the old homestead. Now for ALL the fellows who were kind enough to supply me with information ,My sincere Thanks. The 706 we bought was in such disrepair ,it took well over 6 months to get it back where it once was, with added features I,H never had in mind, i.e. A fuse panel(16) fuses available.independent Guages AMP.OIL.Water on
pedestals on new panels. We used the gas guage intact along with the tach guage. New paint, New fluid all around.new steering wheel. we even re upholstered the seat with a pop can holder and an ashtray. We rebuilt the starter .added a 65 Amp uni-directional alternator. Added lines and valves for the cab heater.The jerk who had it so patched up, had a tie rod end wired up to hold the shaft on, Had a riped and brazes oil pan ruined generator,with duct tape on the wires that werent clipped. One tire was so bad the air was showing throughThe rim on the good tire was full of calcium chloride that leaked through the tube onto the rim. which rust welded the tire to the rim.Another rim was needed. Pulled both tires off sand blasted both, Painted and tires reinstalled. Now keep in mind we didn"t spend the bank on the original purchase, but a lot of time and Money went into the re construction of the 706. Now it is a most impressive machine.The 706 has no 3 point hitch, just straight bar. We want to use just one of the hydraulic ports on the left side of the tractor for the loader valve, so the right and rear will be open for later use. The lever inside(factory) will be used to operate the new joystick valve for the loader arm and bucket (double acting cylinders for both) we really do not want to cut and splice any original lines under the floor pan if we don't have to, as these may in time leak and then have to pull the cab to fix.More of a safer bet to use the left factory port.Would the joystick valve work in this configuration with out a power beyond? The trany and t.a. work fine. No smoke from the engine with 46 lb oil pressure. Damm we could write a book on this fine tractor as it is NOW.The Hydraulics are where we are not to familar with, so that is why we are asking some one for their prior knowledge and experience.
would love to show pictures (before & After) so As to show our efforts. To all who so Kindly anwsered our inquiries present and past, THANKS.
We will use any additional information that will send us on the right path. We will indeed hold off until the cab is placed on the tractor. The cab will take Quite a while to re-do. We have pictures up on our computer but don't know if it is permissible to show here. Again THANKS GUYS!!
LOU.

ToArmand. Thanks for the Info. Please read my last reply to Charles. Your info truly is appreciated as well Thanks again
LOU

Armand. I forgot to lell you the location of the pump. It's located on Under neath the M.C.V. valve Right side of the tractor. Thanks again LOU.

Sounds like quite a machine. It is easy to put more than they are worth. I say this from experience. Using the factory remote to supply the joystick valve will work if you do not mind tying up a remote. I chose my route because I wanted all available in the rear. I originally had both rears operating the loader and that was an inconvience, especially running the baler. I had to set the loader in a safe position then unhook the lines and hook to the baler... Snuffy Smith.

Good luck and post some pics when you can!

Charles

I'll try pics now but cant promise they'll come thru
LOU

Lou: A bit of my history. I have installed hoists and hyd. kits on trucks and semi-trucks as will as working on and being around farm tractors farmal H & M's, 400, 560, J.D. 4020, M&M M5, and a Cook corn sheller mounted on a F700 Ford truck that came from the factory at Washington, Il. with 4 hyd. motors powering augors and elevators that were mechanicaly driven on other shellers. I am currently adding a 3 valve body to run the loader on my 6950 Kuboda tractor and if I can't find a power-beyond port I will add a crankshaft-driven hyd. pump to power my extra hyds. I have also owned 3 loader/backhoes and a truck mounted hyd. powered limestone/fertilizer spreader. I guess you could say I know enough about hyds to be dangerous. That also applies to computors and cameras and there are times my spelling is not the best either. By the way too bad your tractor does not have a 3pt hitch. Enjoy!!!! Armand

WOW. Your 706 has the only thing my 504 lacks... A nice fresh coat of paint! Good job on the restore. What brand/type of paint was used as well as paint codes if not IH 2150? I almost have it mechanicaly where I want it (few leaks to go). I am awaiting the pics with the cab.

Charles

If you intend to only use one of the rear outlets for other than your loader valve bank you have it made. Like I said before, just hook into the one set of couplers, pressure and return, that way the return oil will be dumped into rear frame at normal location. Many are hooked up that way. When you need to use the other set of couplers just untie one to loader so it can be in neutral and you are good to go. There are two pumps in this tractor, you probably know that, one is in middle behind the multiple control valve ,(MCV) on left side and other is below left brake. Both pull fluid through same filter. MCV pump is for all tractor controls, steering, brakes , ta and lubrication, other is for aux hydraulics. I just last fall mounted a loader with joy stick in cab on a 966, same set up. Just required a small space to run cables along side of platform and made a nice plate to mount joy stick on, valves mounted on loader frame. Have worked on 706's since IH introduced them in fall of 63. If you were to say take flow directly off the pump through that plug on the side, (plate pump mounts to) you would still have to tie an aux valve back as it is an open center system and the fluid would just take the easiest path to dump. Then, when you wanted to use your aux valves for another operation you would need to block flow to loader valve. Not practical unless you absolutly need to use both aux valves for a given implement . Hope this helps you .

Thanks for the complement on our 706. Now about the paint.We started out with I.H paint from valspar. Primer and all. Paint is mfg by Valspar
I.H.Red. #3344. On the shelf was a primer by the same co. The problem of using their primer came to cause Cracking & blistering of the finished red. Had to take it all off and My son who painted our restored 92 ford truck.79 dodge restored,called valspar and reported the problem. They couldn't understand why. BUT YOU CAN BET IT DID!!!.Primer wouldnt" dry after 72 hrs. Still remained wet under neath the red finished color, Causing the finished red coat to out dry the primer. Now the truck paint he used on both trucks was Automotive paint and Primer( E poxy)requiring way less dry time and he had No problem using it on the tractor . The Valspar co said not to use a sealer coat on the finished red. but just a good wax to hold color fast from fading. If you intend to try a sealer coat over the finish. he (my SOn) suggest you try it on a piece of primed and finished metal to see if it wont crinkle or blister.
But he suggest you use a good automotive Epoxy primer to begin with. Holds well when applied to sand blasted metal. Namely an automotive primer Gray in color.
Now the rim paint is Rust-OLEUM Protective enamel. That can be sealed with out a problem.
All the white panels was painted with Valspar Tractor & Implement #4431-14 Gloss white. with using their Enamel Hardener.
Years ago I painted fire trucks in a factory so I passed along this information to my son who is now a better painter then I was then. Along with my advise was telling him PAYING ATTENTION TO DETAIL works each and every time. And He really took it to heart and his work shows.
Hope this info is helpfull to you as yours is to us. LOU