wide or narrow on M

i am in the process of trading my super a for a m with a john deer loader, the straight long type, it has single rear wheels and a narrow front. i plan to put on double wheels.
so will i have enough stability with the narrow front and double wheels or should i switch to a wide front and do you get that tight turning with a wide front if mounted under the radiator? i would have to seriously modify the loader or get a different one if i put on a wide front.

Don't wanna sound like a bible-thumper, but you be careful with that thing.

A narrow front end under a loader is just like playing with a loaded pistol. They can be killers.

Allan

both the narrow and the wide fronts are equeally tippy or stable however you view it. the center of gravaity does not change much when you put a wide front on as apposed to the narrow. There was a set of test done back in the 50's that confirmed this. the best word of advice it to be safe and operate only on flat and firm grounds at low speeds. also add ballast to the back of the tractor, ie wheel weights of liquid or what ever you have this will help make the tractor more stable.


Andrew

Andrew,

Not gonna get in a pizzin' match with ya over this topic, but that is just plain bunk.

The center of gravity may not change but the foot-print/load angle sure as heck does. Any 10-year-old on a three wheeler can tell ya that.

Allan

Andrew, what you said makes absolute sense. The reason being with a wide front the tractor is balanced on a pin. The only time the wide front would help is if the tractor would lean far enough for it to contact the axle. This usually is too late if the tractor is on a slope. But then again a narrow front's pivot point is at ground level giving the load more horizontal leverage. Guys, correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't it be easier on bearings and bushings with a narrow front since the weight is directed staight down instead of out and down. Just a thought.

A narrow front will turn sharper. The stock Farmall wide front turns alot wider. If you are just moving snow, a narrow front would be okay. If you want to move round bales or landscape rocks, then get a the wide front.

pheel,

Depending on the loader, a wide front may or may not be compatable. As to stability, it is always best to optimize the stability by either adding duals, widening the rear wheels as much as reasonably possible (over 72 inches), and add weights as well as load (add liquid) to the rears. A lot of the stability comes from the operator such as keeping the loaded bucket close to the ground during transport, raise the loaded bucket above hood level only on level ground, and don't make quick sharp turns. Most accidents are due to operator misjudgement, as opposed to mechanical short-comings.

Yup watched my 3 year old grandson flip that 3 wheel trike 3 times yesterday.

Always went forward roll while turning.

I may put a wide front on it for him before his mother gives me heck about his skinned up knees.

Gary

The pivot point of a narow front is the ground. The pivot point of a wide front is the center pivot pin,so the center of gravity is raised that amount making it that much less likely to tip over. Joe

You can safely use a loader with a narrow front. My dad put a hydraulic loader on our H in 1947, and I presently have one on my narrow-front M. We've never tipped one.
Keep the load as low as possible, and go slow. don't turn short when the load is very high. Turn, THEN lift.
Having your rear wheels set wide and some extra weight on them (wheel weights, fluid in the tires, etc.) will make your tractor more stable.

I use a IH #30 loader on my Farmall H with a narrow front and it works fine.

If it is the kind of JD loader I"m thinking of it will not work with a wide front. If if has long straight arms they will hit a wide front before the bucket gets to the ground. Lee

I find my narrow front 560 pretty handy with a loader. However, looking at it from a stress point of view, the narrow front carries the weight of the tractor/loader/load on the steering box and bearings. The wide front carries the weight on the kingpin/pivot casting/frame. I'd guess that your steering gear would last longer with a wide front all other things being equal.

Chris B.

reading all it sounds like dual wheels, weights, and slow movement should be fine, i am not planning on lifting heavy loads thx pheel

Grandpa bought a Used JD 60 w/ narrow front in 1959 with a Farmhand F-11 loader. He has the manure bucket, snow bucket and the had bucket for it. Ran the loader until 2006 when he sold everything but his 4010. He kept the loader and put it on the 4010. He wished he would have kept the 60! He did hay with it for 20 years and never had an issue. My M has had a loader and narrow front for years and never had a problem. I would rather have the narrow. I can turn easier. It will take the load just watch the hubs. I've heard that people have had problems with the holes wallowing out. I bought one hub for my tractor from a guy who had it fixed 30 years ago and never put it back on the tractor. I think the wide will help some with stability but unless you are going to be beating the living crap out of it you will be fine with narrow. Wide front ends are over priced anyway. You'll have as much into that tractor as it is worth putting a wide on it.


T.C.

You most definately need a brand new Schwartz heavy duty wide front on that M. I'll be glad to fix you right up.

I have a 62 Farmall 504 Diesel that I put a NEW Koyker loader on in 2007. With the loader, bucket, and hydraulics, I have spent about $4500 alone. I know the value of a 62 F504D is propably less than the loader alone. I also plan to buy a NEW Schwartz WFE to replace my Speeco WFE that is slap wore out. The reason is I can rebuild a POS for $5-600 or new for $1100 and be 2x as strong. I am also going to buy new rims and install 9.5L-15 tires.

The reason I do not mind putting $6000 into a paid for, older, solid tractor is I am not using it commercially and $6000 is just a down payment on a new equal. A 4x4 NH 60 HP with a loader, no shuttle, no remotes, bare bones tractor was $36,000. Nice, but I cannot justify that right now.

I am using this equipment to clear land (50 acres) and use my excavator to load stumps into the bucket and carry them to a pit for burning. I have uneven ground, holes, and ruts. It is HECK on the tractor, especially the WFE. The tie rods, spindle bushings, and pitman shafts are past their prime. NO WAY WOULD I USE A NARROW FRONT FOR LOADS LIKE THIS! There are times that the WFE has a hard time searching for stability. Although a NFE turns on a dime.

My Wife and Equipment Operator


Stump


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I would have better pics, but I "misplaced" my camera and it got ran over, the root rake got it, and the disk cut into it. Looked like hammered cat $hit, but the battery and card were unharmed. Went on EBAY and found the exact camera and bought another!

Enjoy,

Charles