Farmall C Still no Music

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
First off, thanks for all the ideas over the last couple weeks. Unfortunatly, nothing has changed. I have: Rebuilt the carb, completely rewired (and it ran fine, but stopped starting), new coil, plugs, plug wires, new cap, roter and points. there is nothing in the gas tank, I have cleaned the carb again. I have spark and it will start on carb cleaner but won't run long and won't do it again (I think its flooding) There is all kinds of suction at the intake with the carb on or off. I am completely at a loss. I live in central Iowa and would love to have someone take a look or something. You guys are great and I am sure the answer is out there.
 
I've been known to "pop on over" and help where I could in a couple of cases like yours, but there's someting like a third or a half of a continent between us.

It's starting to sound like a valve issue, or a timing (valves or spark) issue.

Have you done a compression test? That would be a good next step. Have you run the valves for gap?

Has either the distributor/mag or the governor (or, more importantly, the gear that runs both of them) been off the tractor somewhere along the line? Is your static timing good?
 
Line up the timing mark with the timing pointer on the front of the engine. Pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is underneath the terminal running to the #1 plug wire. If not roll it over a full revolution and check again. If still not, it's out of time.
 
Farmall C timing mark is on the rim of the flywheel and is very faint. Remove all spark plugs for easy cranking while using the fan blades or hand crank.
Bring #1 (front) piston up on its compression stroke and stop at top dead center.
Get undr the engine & look for the 1-4 TC mark & use chalk or a yellow crayon to highlight the mark on the flywheel. Have a helper slowly rotate the crankshaft forwards or backwards so the TC mark lines up with the embossed line on the tin plate to the rear of the flywheel.
Now check the distributor rotor to verify that it points to #1 spark plug terminal. Factory position would be about 2 o'clock looking at the cap from the rear of the tractor.
Remove the 2 capscrews & clamps holding the distributor body in place, pull out the distributor, turn the rotor so it is in the 2 o'clock position, & re-install. Replace the clamps & capscrews, snug them down, & rotate the distributor body clockwise until the points are closed. Now rotate the distributor body counter-lockwise until the points JUST BEGIN to open and lock the capscrews in place. Timing should be complete.
 
After reading the other comments, I'd also toss in a suggeation that you check your plug wires to make sure you've got them all hooked up in their proper order.

#1 is customarily at about 2 o'clock, but could be anywhere. Once you have the motor at TDC on the compression stroke on #1, and the rotor button lined up with the tower for the wire to #1, they should go clockwise, when viewed from the rear, 1,3,4,2.
 
Intake is clear?

Friends 8N was shot he said ran terrible and smoked bad. Turned out to be the intake tube full of acorns and a dried out dead rat.
 
I will probaly get flamed for this but I would give her a small sniff of ether. If it tries to start and run on ether you know you have fuel problem if not probaly firing problem. A little ether will not hurt it a lot of ether can destroy engine.
 
Fill a pump type of oilcan with gasoline. Remove the plugs. Put two squirts of fuel in each hole. After squirting put the plug back in. Attach wires in correct order, and start it. If it starts for 5 seconds or so, it is a fuel delivery issue. If it does, the fuel is not getting to the air in the carb. Clogged passage, stuck shut float, or similar. JimN
 
Its not getting fuel. Did you check for a screen behind the tube fitting where your gas line is connected? It could be plugged. See if there's a full flow gas from the gas line to the carburetor. Hold a clean container beneath the gas line to catch the gas. Check that intake manifold to make sure its tight. Spray some of that carb cleaner around that intake while cranking over the engine. If it starts your intake manifold may need a new gasket. Your plug wires need to be in this firing order as you view the cap with No1. plug near the radiator.

If it still won't start bring No1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. Then see where your rotor is pointing. If its not at the No1 plug tower your cam gear may have failed. While you're at TDC see if both valves are closed and if your timing marks are aligned. Hal

2-1
4-3
 
just a stab in the dark here,,but when reassembling the carb did you remember to put back the "venturi" barrel that fits into the center of the throat,,on the split of the upper and lower half of the carb ?? and is it in right side up and not upside down, the gasket must also make a good seal around this item.
 
OK, it will start on either and stay running, not smooth but it will run. I need to check the points gap and then run it again. I am leaning to a poor carb? I am in the Ames area.
 
I would say to start with fuel delivery. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the carb and see if you got fuel. If it does then I would try the timing. It may be off by a couple of degrees. When you get it fired up with the ether (using a little bit) adjust your distributor either way until it pures like a kitten. May only need to rotate a quarter inch or so. Then wait and see if it keeps running. (Make sure you fuel is turned on, happened to me a few times)
 

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