Hello, I overhauled this C late last fall. It runs great, I plowed snow and now want it to rake hay. When I installed the new sleeves I noticed that they all were taller than the original, in the height exposed on the block. I mic'd them and they all ran from .011 to .0125" in height protruding. My manual recommends .003-.007" I put it together anyway thinking that thick ol head gasket would seal. I sprayed copper gasket to both sides , twice. Now this spring while changing the oil I noticed about 4 oz. of coolant in the oil. After raking 10 acres of hay I drained aprox 12 oz. of coolant out of the oil.I retorqued the head bolts to 70#. Now I drain at least 6-10 oz. of coolant out of the oil every morning with it just sitting. Should I pull the head and machine the tops of the sleeves? Do they make a different head gasket to help this? Or does anyone know of a magic elixir to add to the radiator that might seal this. Thank you for reading such a long post and I hope to gather some pearls of wisdom.
- Thread starter JDinMi
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Coolant in oil can happen at the head gasket. I will state that the leak can be defined pretty well if it is in the O rings at the sleeve spigot (bottom) there is a higher probability of that. The finding of the problem is as important as the fix. Otherwise you are throwing fixes at an unknown.
Pull the oil pan and with 2 to 3 psi max if it is a non pressure cap, and up to a max of 7 if it has a very normal looking rad cap,(The non pressure looks like a gas cap) look up under the engine while pressurized. the leak will either come from around a cylinder base (spigot) or down the oil return areas by the cam. If none is coming out of the sleeve spigots, the head gasket on tall sleeves may be the issue. If the sleeves, it needs to be torn down completely.
A tool may be able to be used (like a ridge reamer) to remove the flange to the correct height W/O removing the engine for surfacing. JimN
Pull the oil pan and with 2 to 3 psi max if it is a non pressure cap, and up to a max of 7 if it has a very normal looking rad cap,(The non pressure looks like a gas cap) look up under the engine while pressurized. the leak will either come from around a cylinder base (spigot) or down the oil return areas by the cam. If none is coming out of the sleeve spigots, the head gasket on tall sleeves may be the issue. If the sleeves, it needs to be torn down completely.
A tool may be able to be used (like a ridge reamer) to remove the flange to the correct height W/O removing the engine for surfacing. JimN
The very first thing to do is drain the anti freeze and fill with water. (anti freeze will eat the bearings fast)If I needed the tractor I would add a can of ginger(kitchen cabinet)to the water and that my be enough to seal it or at least get you buy till you have time to fix it. One other thing to know is anti freeze will find a leak that water won t.
Thank you for the idea's to get me on track. I do have a SnapOn radiator pressure tester to double check the sleeve O-ring gaskets. The thing is that it now leaks more after I tightened the head bolts 5 more pounds??? I drilled and tapped another drain plug with a petcock installed, so I drain it into a clear water bottle. The increased coolant amount is what really suprised me. After what I put into rebuilding it I will make time to get it right. Just needed where to look first. Thanks
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
That is an awful lot of sleeve protrusion. What I do to test leakage besides pressurizing radiator, is to get piston to top dead center comp stroke and apply air pressure using a regulator so you can gradually increase pressure. Just braze a air fitting onto an old spark plug , couple the air hose, and them observe all places air is coming out, radiator, past valves, past rings. I prefer this to just a compression test also to determine engine condition. I use a double gauge set up with orficed air but you don't need that to check for head gasket leakage. Of course this is all in hind sight, but always install the sleeves with out the o-rings to check for proper fit in block and sleeve protrusion.
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