farmall c not running

OK, I have taken all the advice to heart you guys have given me. Here is the problem, my Farmall C will not run. It starts VERY hard and does not stay running long. I have rebuilt the carb, replaced the plugs, wires, cap and coil. There is nothing in the gas tank (the sediment bowl is always clean). Whats next? The carb is not a zenith, someone said it may be the wrong one, but the guy I bought it from used it before he out-grew it. I am at a loss, I really need it to mow the yard but I don't want to keep throwing money at it. Please help!

How's your timing? Any air/vacuum leaks? Good flow in the fuel line, including a clean screen at the inlet elbow? Float in the carb adjusted right and free to move?

Not sure what all you've done so I'm sort of shooting from the hip.

When it does finally start (and stay running) It will run all day long. Yesterday it started (with gas running out the bottom of the carb) and ran about 5 min before I had to start adjusting the carb to keep it running. 5 min later it was dead again. Cranked and cranked but to no avail (gas still comming out the wheep hole). Gave up and hooked the truck up to pull it back to the shed. Dad poped the clutch just to see and it fired right off, ran 5 min and died. You can open the pitcock on the carb and gas runs out. As far as the timing, I couldn't tell you.

If it was timing, it wouldn't run that well for that long, so it's something else. Aggravatin' part is that it's apt to turn out to be somethin' really simple.

Check for an air leak when it starts to act up by spraying carb or brake cleaner near where the manifold joins the head and down by where the carb mounts to the manifold, as well. If that's a problem, I'd sooner suspect the upper end opening up a gap as the manifold starts to heat up.

You didn't mention your ignition condenser. That'd be worth checking out. What I hear, about one of of three or four is bad right out of the box.

On the oddball list, are both ends of your coil wire seated firmly in the cap and coil? That one bridge/connection can shut the whole works down.

Hold your hand over the throat of the carburetor and see if there's good suction. You will need a helper. Hal

Condenser

How is the wire from the switch up to the coil?? Also the switch itself?? When it starts to die next time, pull the choke out a bit to make sure fuel delivery isn't the problem. If it still dies, connect a jumper wire from the battery hot terminal to the coil primary terminal that comes from the switch. If the engine starts/ runs, look for a bad wire/ terminal/ switch. Something is not making the connection in the electrical department, & you have to isolate which area is causing trouble. These systems are not that complicated.

Had an 8-n Ford doing the same thing-gave up and took it in to a local Deere dealer--it was the wiring in the starting circuit-- I had a couple wires crossed-check your owners manual for a wiring circuit diagram follow all the wires to where they're supposed to be. I realize this doesn't make much sense but, the 8-n has run good ever since.

There are two reasons for gas to run out of the carb:

1. The float is not set right or is sticking.
2. You're cranking for several minutes at a time with the choke closed.

Either way the engine is flooding and that's why it's hard to start.

Take the carb apart and start over. Don't get discouraged, happens to everyone. Took us four tries to get it right on my Super H.

When starting, quick blips of choke only. Do not hold the choke. Once it fires, feather the choke to keep it running.

When it stalls, does pulling the choke change how it runs? If so, you have a fuel problem. If not, it's usually ignition.

Check air filtration (oil bath?) to see if air can come thru filtration. May have water or gas in filtration system. If oil bath, change oil and fill to proper level.

Float may be sticking, at times; sticking open in carburetor allowing too much gas; or may be sticking closed not allowing enough gas to enter the carburetor.

Take intake hose off carburetor and spray WD-40 into the carburetor while someone else is turning the starter over. If it starts, you have a problem with lack of gas. If it starts with the WD-40, keep spraying in the carburetor while engine is running, if engine continues to run while spraying, your problem is lack of gas. You can check fire with a timing light or pull one of spark plug wires off and lay it near the block... turn the engine over.....it will ark to the block if firing. Wire will need to be no more 1/4 inch from the block while checking fire.

Also, check the weights under the plate in distributor to see if they are free to swing outward......these weights advance the timing when motor RPM is increased. If weights are stuck, spray them with carburetor spray and/or WD-40 and work them with your fingers to free them up.

Do you have any gas filters in the line?
Is there a brass screen in the gas line inlet of the carb.?
Fuel flow. Allow a gallon of gas to run thru the carb drain and watch to see if it flows more slowly after the first pint.
Maybe the float is making contact with the side of the fuel bowl.

After it dies, is the carb empty? Do you have spark after it dies?

I am sure others have asked these same questions, but I not current on your situation.
SDE

(quoted from post at 13:45:35 06/08/09) Condenser

Click to expand...

second that. David..................