I have a 41 A I know the 113 was also made with a water pump. I have been told that one can be added to mine. Can it be done ? What all needs changed ? Is the head and bolck the same ? I know I have a head gasket problem so now would be the time to make the change if possible.
Thanks
For any help you can give me

The water pump can be bolted right on.

As for what else you'll need -- a gasket (if it doesn't come with the pump), a longer belt (check the parts listing for a Super C--it's the belt between the crank pulley and fan that drives the pump , NOT the generator belt) and a different generator brace, one that is shorter and has a slight curve to it, also standard for a Super C and the SuperAs with pumps. It can be had from salvage or at oemtractorparts.com. Can't remember for sure, but there might be some difference in the length of the hose, and in the piping that makes the drain down through the front casting (all standard iron pipe and fittings), but that's about it.

Now for all of that, if you're adding a pump to run it cooler thinking that might be related to your head gasket problem, I'll just kick in two cents and sya that you might be better off, while you have the head off, to remove the lower radiator hose and get some water under pressure and flush the block, especially at the rear end. (Use duct tape to mask off your cylinders and any port open to the crankcase) It will amaze you the amount of crud and sediment that will build up in there, especially the way it piles up around #3 and #4 sleeves. Clean out the head the same way, there'll be a lot of crud in there, too.

At that point, I'd run it just the way it is afte you get it back together. You may find, if she was running hot, that the flushing will have fixed it. In any event, unless you have the mtor right off off the tractor already, I can't think that having the head off is going to make the job of bolting on a water pump any easier. You can bolt it on anytime.

All I'll caution about a water pump is that, without a thernmostat, and in the absence of radiator shutters or a zip-up bra, you'll have to work the livin' snot out of the tractor to ever warm it up with a pump on it. You have to work 'em pretty hard and for a while to get uit up to operating temp range on a gauge, even with the thermosiphon. Using an unrestricted forced circulation from the git-go instead of the convection flow, you might never warm it up properly.

All by way of saying I'd try flushing first. Might as well flush the radiator, too whle yo're at it. That's a GREAT thing to do while you have the head off. See how that works before taking the plunge on a water pump. Keep in mind, tens of thousands of these things worked and worked hard just fine for a lot of years with no pump on them. If it's overheating, there's something the matter.

If you just want to have water pump on it, go for it. If everything is as it should be you will not have cooling problem without pump. Have bush hoged with my 1941 A several hours at a time, in 90 degrre weather, pulling 5 ft. cutter that was really too much for the A and have never had heating problem. Have owned my A for over 40 years and have always kept coolong system flushed out.

I believe the head gasket is different for water pump vs no water pump, but I'm not sure why. If you add a pump, I would also add a thermostat, so it will come up to temp and stay there.

Chris: IH never turned out a C-113 from the factory with a water pump. All of them were thermosyphon from the beginning.

When IH designed a water pump for the C-123, (same basic block) all that was required was design a pump that would fit in the same space as bottom water port of a C-113. Bingo, they had a pump that would fit every C-113, all the way back to 1939.