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Woe is me

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I posted last week re. tower clamps not holding at the water pump to outlet hose. I fixed that with worm drive clamps and I've been leak free for a week....until this morning. It got down to around 40 last night and now I've got drips coming from the gasket at both the water pump to block and outlet casting to block!!! I'm ready to open a vein! I used new gaskets with hi tack and now I have to dismantle the works. What should I do when I reassemble? RTV instead of gaskets? Why would it leak only at the cooler temps?
 
im new to this conversation, so im not sure what all you've done, but first cold condenses, meaning it shrinks stuff,but that shouldnt be a factor here, so some of the things i would check are did you replace the radiator cap? if so is it the right one, if it isnt and its allowing too much pressure to build in the radiator it will leak at the weakest point it finds, second did you replace the hoses? if so are the new ones the right diameter, andhow were the metal hose ends on the tractor , if they were pitted or damaged you can either replace those or use silicone gasketmaker to make a seal, [ warning if you do the next feller that replaces those hoses will wish every evil known to man on you and several that man never heard of] umm no chance of the tractor having a blown head gasket and pressuring up the cooling system is there?
 
i forgot to add [ breakfast arrived] on your castings, they must be absolutly clean and flat when you install a new gasket then use a light film of rtv to seal any pits in the sujrface and tighten to the proper tourque then it should not leak, unless your new water pump is one of wong fu's china specials that is made " almost right" then all bets are off
 
Last thing I would add is that the hose *must* be slightly smaller diameter than the metal outlet fittings. If the hose is slightly larger then the worm clamp will never be able to make it reliably seal.

It is also good practice to have a retention bead, I've made these from brazing/soldering a single strand copper or Mig wire wrapped tightly at the end of the hose fitting (realizing this doesn't exactly work for assembled castings and a radiator which might start to "melt" elsewhere)
 
Did you use CaseIH gaskets? I've had trouble with the aftermarket gaskets for the water outlet and pump leaking. My Super H decided to start leaking after I had the paint done. I replaced them with CaseIH gaskets and no leaks a year later.
 
The gaskets came with the engine rebuild kit and since posting this morning now the rocker chamber gasket is leaking oil! I am really p-o'd. Did you use a little RTV with the Case gaskets??.
 
It leaked with the engine not running! The water pump is the original and it's mounting surface and the mounting surface on the block were virtually pit free. I think the gaskets are junk!!! Plus I used some Hi Tack.
 
I did use a thin coating of rtv on the Case gaskets. Usally I don't use RTV because it can cause more problems that it solves. I like to use the No.3 Permatex brush on gasket sealer but that will not bridge imperfect areas like rtv can. I have had bad luck with aftermarket gaskets mainly Victor Renz. On my 706 I replaced the head gasket. The valve cover gasket and the intake manifold gasket that came with the kit leaked as soon as I started it. I bought the CaseIH gaskets to replace them and not a bit of seepage with them. The Case gaskets were made of a rubber like compound not the cheap cork and paper like the Victor ones. Now when I replace a gasket it comes from CaseIH, it may cost more but I'am not replacing it in a few hours either.
 
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