Super A Generator still not generating.

Hi,

First of all, thanks John T. again for the tips. I have done all that was suggested to no avail. My generator is not putting anything out and will not motorize. I am going to take it apart again and rough up the commutator with sand paper but short of that I am out of ideas. I have installed new bearings and brushes and the wiring all looks good. The field is not shorted to ground and I do get a measurable resistance going from the field terminal to the field brush. Any idea what the proper value should be?

If sanding the commutator fails to help, are armatures available and if so, is it a good idea to go ahead and put one in?

Thanks again!

Fred

If it fails to spin like a motor when voltage is applied from its ARM post to case frame (ground), I suspect the Armature might be bad, although other field or brush problems may still be at fault !!

Does it show any burned places or melted solder where its windings meet the commutator?????

Any classic electrical burned smells???

There should NOT be continuity from any commutator segment to the steel center shaft or any other metal CUZ THATS A SHORTED ARMATURE WINDING. An ohm meter or DC continuity tester can easily test for that.

With the armature removed the 2 field windings in series as measured form ARM post to FLD post should be in the vicinity of 3 to 6 ohms, depends on what genny and if its 6 or 12 volt. INSURE the splice is good where the 2 field windings join together AND INSURE its NOT shorted to frame somewhere.

There should be infinite ohms OPEN circuit from ARM or FLD to case frame (armature removed) cuz if not one or both the fields or their splice is shorted.

The ARM post must be connected internally to BOTH the non grounded brush and the beginning of the first Field winding, the first field splices to second (be sure it is and NOT grounded), then out to FLD post.

Brushes and brush holds down springys all gotta be okay

Get it fixed, Im runnin outa smarts n ideas here lol

John T

Fred: Go to your local auto electric rebuilder. Get him to change the internal regulator of a GM Delco alternator to 6 volt. I did just that 17 years ago with my Super A. It has been trouble free since. Like you and John, I was running out of ideas.

My field lug only connects to one end of the field. The other end of the fields connect only to the brush. My armature lug is connected directly to the brush and it terminates there with no other connections. The ground brush just connects to the case. The generator does not seemed burned, damaged worn or having slung solder. The field is not shorted or open and the brushes are brand new within tight hold down springs. My commutator has deep grooves between the bars. I will check that none of the bars short to the shaft. I am in Virginia but I am willing to ship the generator to have it checked with a growler. Thanks again,

Fred

Sounds good, the other (NOT to FLD Post) Field winding end gets EITHER to the ARM terminal orrrrrrrrr to the Armature (non grounded) brush, same place electrically. Still it has to spin/motor if voltage is applied to its ARM post and case/frame and if it wont spin/motor I wouldnt expect it to charge either. If you dead ground the FLD post to case frame and apply voltage to arm post to case/frame ground Id expect it to spin (armature n brushes okay) and then speed up some if the FLD ground is removed (Fields are okay), if its does BOTH of those Id expect it to charge.

Let us know John T

Where are you in VA? I am outside Richmond in Hanover, and I have access to a growler at work.

Chip

Will do! Fred

Hi Chip,

I am actually up in Warrenton, not too far away!

Fred