Dreaded Antifreeze in Oil

I changed the oil last Thursday in the 1952 Farmall Super C that my father purchased new in 1952. It had been sold out of the family in 1962 after he died. I have been working since 1991 to get it back and finally did in 2006. I got it home and for various reasons have not done much with it for the past three years, although I did get it put inside for probably the first time in its existence.

Anyway, I let it run 10 minutes or so and went to change the oil and filter. When I took the oil plug out, probably a pint of green antifreeze came out before the oil came out. Darn (and a few other thoughts). I know it cannot be good, but I am open to advice on what to look for first (and simplist and easiest) before I start thinking cracked block, etc. Thanks in advance. Larry Hardesty
 
Looks as if a engine tear down is needed. The C123 engine has wet sleeves so the 0 rings around the sleeves may be leaking antifreeze into the oil. Other possibilities include a cracked block, leaking head gasket or cracked head. Good luck. Marv
 
Larry, if you can get ahold of a pressure tester hook it up to your radiator, pull your oil pan off, and put the system under pressure, shine a light up there and you can hopefully see exactly where your antifreeze is coming from...good luck
 
Remove the oil pan and apply pressure to the radiator. You only need about 5 psi and then look for any leaks around those seals. They get like an old shoe left out in the weather over time. If there's a leak the engine needs to be completely torn down and that area around those seals needs to be thoroughly cleaned of any rust or dirt. I would have the block cleaned & install new sleeves & pistons. Have the crankshaft measured for wear as it may be worn some. Have your local machine shop furnish the correct new bearings too. Get the head redone and it will be good for another 50 years. Hal
 
Hal, Hate to sound dumb (but hard to conceal it), but what is the trick to applying pressure to the radiator? My first thought is just just stick the air hose in where the radiator cap is with an old rag covering it and turn the hose on, but that might not be the correct instinct!

Larry
 
The radiators can only stand 7psi (do not use more)the tank metal will break at its seams.
I also believe the Orings are probably at fault. I believe that A treatment with ground black Pepper (about 1/4 cup), or Bars Leak can seal up leaks permanently. It is worth a try and cheap at that.
JimN
 
Jim. What`s the deal with the ground pepper? You just take a 1/4 cup of it and dump it down the radiator? Not to hijack this thread ,but ,I have the same deal going on as Larry.I have a Farmall 240 with very low hours (577) that showed some anti freeze in the oil the last oil change. I suspected o-rings right from the start because the tractor just sits all the time and is used very little.I don`t want to tear her apart if I can get away with it as I believe the pistons and sleeves sure shouldn`t need replacing.
 
If the engine runs good and oil consumpsion is acceptable I would try the stopleak method before investing in a teardown. Not much to lose except some oil changes. Waterglass can be used as a permenent stopleak.
 
Well, I am guessing (and hoping)the o-rings. I think the previous owner just used the tractor in the summer as a rake tractor in the hay field. He probably ran water in it during the summer and then drained it after haying season and it sat empty over the winter. Then, I think it just sat for two or three years after the fellow retired before he had his ranch sale. So the seals probably had plenty of time to dry and detriorate. When I got it, I put antifreeze in it. I understand that antifreeze will get places and leak where water will not. So, it may not have leaked water but now just setting most of the time, it leaks antifreeze into the oil. I will try a radiator stop leak first and see what happens.

I had to replace the transmission oil. It had enough water in it that it froze up last winter. Looks like the old tractor might have been rode hard and put away wet (as they say) by the previous owner. Fortunately, the sheet metal is in good shape (although not a bit of paint on it). I would like to bring the old girl back to life and get her painted up. She was our main (and big tractor) on the ranch when I was growing up. The other tractor was a 1941 Farmall A, which I also have.

Thanks

Larry Hardesty
 
Well, I am guessing (and hoping)the o-rings. I think the previous owner just used the tractor in the summer as a rake tractor in the hay field. He probably ran water in it during the summer and then drained it after haying season and it sat empty over the winter. Then, I think it just sat for two or three years after the fellow retired before he had his ranch sale. So the seals probably had plenty of time to dry and detriorate. When I got it, I put antifreeze in it. I understand that antifreeze will get places and leak where water will not. So, it may not have leaked water but now just setting most of the time, it leaks antifreeze into the oil. I will try a radiator stop leak first and see what happens.

I had to replace the transmission oil. It had enough water in it that it froze up last winter. Looks like the old tractor might have been rode hard and put away wet (as they say) by the previous owner. Fortunately, the sheet metal is in good shape (although not a bit of paint on it). I would like to bring the old girl back to life and get her painted up. She was our main (and big tractor) on the ranch when I was growing up. The other tractor was a 1941 Farmall A, which I also have.

Thanks

Larry Hardesty
 
Go to NAPA and buy a small tube of silver radiator stop leak product they have. I don't remember the exact name but it has worked for me and at about a dollar a tube it is a easy fix to try.
Steve
 
A lot of work and a good paint job will make it look better than new. Take a look at this WD45 that the owner's daughter had painted for her dad several Christmases ago. Martin Senour's Crossfire paint was used on it. A man in Ohio painted it for her. Hal
85onksz.jpg
 
This is your fathers tractor. Dont risk messing up something else with band-aid fixes such as stop leak, or the like.Drop the oil pan, get yourself a pressure tester and see where the AF is coming from.
 
Pepper flakes get into the leak and plug it up.
I have used it, and fine ground walnut shells, to stop leaks in cooling systems befor. It can work, is cheap, and comes out with a flush.
JimN
 
Folks, Thanks for all the help. I do not have time in the next day to two to work with the tractor, but I will see what I can do later in the week. I hope everyone had a good Memorial Day.

Larry Hardesty
 

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