Hey Tractor Vet, or anyone else... 806 Brakes....

Bought an 806 from my in-laws. Was used for light work, mowing, hauling bales, etc. Didn't have much for brakes when he bought it 20 years ago. If you pumped it a bit you had enough to stop if you had to. The brake housing would get smoking hot if you run it down the road very long. Anyway right before I bought it they had new brake discs put on both sides. The plates looked pretty good so they reused them. Nothing really changed. The pedal goes just about to the floor and still very little brakes, either side. I followed the IT manual and the brake pedal travel already was 4 1/8". Didn't mess with the control valve adjustment, couldn't get to the clamp screws. I bleed the brakes and there was no air at all. What I am thinking, and it isn't covered in the IT manual, that there might be a problem with getting hyd. pressure to the brake valve spools or the brake spools need rebuilt. Any ideas? Thanks Dan

I worked some plowed ground a bit yesterday had some brakes once in a while for turning. And when I used them they would start to get hot and stink. Thanks Dan

Well have you had the brakes apart ???? and looked at everything in side ??? yqa got return spring taht maybe broken or stuck in brake dust and crud the self adjusters may be stuck or not set wright you did not say if there was any signs of leakage under the brake drum . As for the valve it's self i have only worked on one over the tears as they are pretty much bullet proof , Now if the brake pressure is low then there will have to be and issue with the MCV . So first i would pull the brakes apart and make sure that everything is as it should be and both adjusters are working and that the return springs are not stuck broken or missing they only last so long and if one adjuster is stuck or springs stuck or broken then you will get hot brakes then you will get hot brakes and poor braking. Then and only then would i start to dig deeper.
Now i will not be around much as we have finialy broke into clear dry but COLD weather and we are going to be in the fields alot as my buddy and i have our corn to get in the ground i also have to help another friend with his so i may not be on much So i will try and stay up with any problems that may come up but may be a tinny weee little bit slow on getting back

I took the brakes on the right side apart last night and they are dry and clean, there is no oil down by the drain hole on bottom of either cover. The self adjusters are both free. Could you tell me how to set the self adjusters for the initial setting? It just doesn't seem to be getting any pressure to the valve body. Is there a plug or something I can remove to chech for pressure or bleed the valve body. I know it is under extreme pressure of course.After thinking about it, where both brakes act the same that it is a pressure problem before it gets to the valve. May be I need to get a book that goes into it farther. Thanks for the Help! Dan

Can you tell me what the standard height for the springs are. They might have gotten so hot that they are not springs anymore. And according to the IT and Owners manual you should have a half pedal of brakes when motor is not running. The pedals act the same motor running or not. Could it be the inlet orfice by the valve body plugged or the brake check valve by the MCV leaking or something so that pressure can't be built up. Later Dan

Take the inlet fitting out of the brake valve, there is an orfice right there in the valve and it is not uncommon for it to get a piece of crap in it. On your self adjusters, set them all the way back and make sure the little spring on them will allow screw to turn in one direction only. No need to bleed brake valve, just bleed brake themselves, run a plastic tube from brake right back into the oil filler and push the pedal, should get a good flow, 1 gal a minute. If you have a TA on tractor and it works ok in direct drive your pressure at mcv is good. If no TA you may need to put a gauge on mcv, should have maybe 240 psi to 270. Can't give you a spec on length of return springs in brake but they are no doubt weak if it has been hot very often. Far as brakes dragging, they need to have some clearance after assembling them , bleeding them and appling them. You should be able to turn wheel by hand easily.

Pete, Thanks for the info. The T/A works good both ways, shifts pretty firm under a load. When I bled the right side brake last night I had a hose stuck into a pint bottle with some oil in it. With the tractor running and the pedal pressed down I opened the bleeder and it pushed out a tbl spoon max and quit. It didn't keep running as you indicated as long as the pedal was pressed. I took the pressure line off the valve (the one just below the Rt and Lft lines) and removed the fitting thinking the fitting might be the orfice. Didn't clean oil out of the body. Getting too dark out. Tommorow I'll clean it out and then look for the orfice? Is the orfice removable? What size of hole is the orfice. Thanks Dan

Orfice is screwed into valve under the inlet fitting, is removable, I can't give you the exact size , only allows l gal per min so not very large, like maybe 1/16 but at any rate should not have to change size just make sure it is open. There is also a nylon check valve on the other end of that line at the mcv which may fail and block the flow to brake valve.

Last night I took check valve and spring out and they looked to be O.K. Going to check the orfice tonight. Thanks for your help. Dan