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Plowing with a H?

S

Spook

Well-known Member
I have a 48 H with a Saginaw 3 pt hitch, I also have a 3pt 2 bottom plow. I am thinking of plowing with it, but I am worried about the hitch being attached to the rear axle castings, not the drawbar. Is using a 3 pt plow a good idea?
 
Just a thought but the trans case is what takes all the loads no matter where the pull comes from. The drawbar from the large lug, the axle housings are flanged, doweled, and multi-bolted to the same trans case. Also, theoretically, the loads are shared between the two sides.

My thoughts are also that the axle housings are *very* tough. I would not worry for a second pulling a 2 bottom plow with the Saginaw 3pt.
 
I have been plowing with a aftermarket 3-point hitch on my Super H for many years with a two bottom plow. I also use other implements like a 8 foot tandem disk, brush mower, 6ft rototiller, box scraper, and recently bought a 3-point fork attachment for hauling pallets. I have never had problems with it. If things are too heavy the front wheels will lift off the ground (not good) or it just may not lift it as I found out with heavy pallets of block. Roger
 
(quoted from post at 18:01:53 05/17/09) I have a 48 H with a Saginaw 3 pt hitch, I also have a 3pt 2 bottom plow. I am thinking of plowing with it, but I am worried about the hitch being attached to the rear axle castings, not the drawbar. Is using a 3 pt plow a good idea?
Click to expand...

The ORIGINAL horseshoe drawbar for the H also attaches to the axle housings. IH intended for the pull type plow to be hitched directly to that horseshoe drawbar. The SWINGING drawbar was an optional, extra cost accessory, and was never intended to be used with a plow.

So to answer your question, using the 3 point to pull a plow will not be any different than using the standard, horseshoe drawbar.
 
I question whether you're actually "plowing" or just dragging a hunk of iron across the ground with such a setup. You have poor depth control and zero draft control.
 
If you put a couple of guage wheels on plow you can do OK but you will not gain the extra traction that you get with draft control. Your plow with guage weels will not operate a lot different than the old factory direct hitch plows.
 
Rusty: I've plowed many thousands of acres with H, 300 and 560, always used the swinging drawbar with a side hill hitch. I along with thousands of farmers wouldn't be without those two options, trailer plowing.

In the days of the H and 300 it was a notched lever for changing swinging drawbar side shift adjustment. By the time 560 and 4 bottom plows came along, we were using hydraulic cylinder for swinging drawbar side shift.
 
Spook, I have a Saginaw 3 point on my 45 H. I had to see what it would do with a set of 3 bottom, 16in plows. Well I got the job done. Should have added weight to the front end. It will pull 3 bottom 14in better.

Rollie
a125865.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 16:09:58 05/18/09) Rusty: I've plowed many thousands of acres with H, 300 and 560, always used the swinging drawbar with a side hill hitch. I along with thousands of farmers wouldn't be without those two options, trailer plowing.

In the days of the H and 300 it was a notched lever for changing swinging drawbar side shift adjustment. By the time 560 and 4 bottom plows came along, we were using hydraulic cylinder for swinging drawbar side shift.
Click to expand...

You're up in Canada. I am down here in Iowa. Apparently we do things differently. I've never seen a side hill hitch, or the need for a side shift hitch. If the tractor had a swinging drawbar, it was moved over to the side, out of the way, and the plow clevis was attached directly to the horseshoe, right in the center. Any adjustments needed to get the plow to trail correctly were made to the hitch on the plow.
 
Rusty: Can't understand why you pull a plow from the U drawbar. It's a well known fact these tractors pull more from the swinging drawbar. We've tried it numerous times on at least six different tractors.
 

Maybe no one around here ever tried using the swinging drawbar, but theoretically, the shorter the hitch, the more weight you can pull. I have proved that theory myself when moving portable sheds and cattle self-feeders.
 
Gotta support Hugh on this one... The angle of the dangle has a lot to do with it.

The pull point for the swinging drawbar is down between the wheels. With the horseshoe it's up over the top of the axles.
 

Yes and no... Yes only if your hitch is directly in line with the swinging draw bar as far as elevation... if there is any angle between the two in the vertical plane then some of the load is transferred to the fixed drawbar...

That said.. FWIW I always hitch to the swinging drawbar with the pull types.. Once a land is broken and the tractor tire and the plow tires are both in furrow the drawbar is free to swing side to side on that fixed horseshoe drawbar...
 
Rusty: Pulling a trailer plow is much like pulling a stone boat. When the average IH trailer plow is plowing 8" deep, the pivot point of plow and tongue is roughly 6" off the ground. The hitch end of tongue at tractor drawbar is roughly 15" off the ground. Now, most folks will agree that a 3.5' tongue at that sharp angle will exert considerable down draft on tractor wheels. The further that hitch point is from tractor rear axle, the more down pressure the draft will exert on tractor rear wheels. Believe me, this is how Harry Ferguson and others learned that if you extend that hitch point back even further than the swinging drawbar, it becomes very easy to transfer plow weight and soil to moldboard suction to rear wheels of tractor. Well my friend, good trailer plows also transfer a lot of weight if that swinging drawbar is long enough. Having said that, I doubt if one could keep the front wheels down if the swinging drawbar were rigid enough and extended 4' beyond the U drawbar, you couldn't steer it, but man would it pull.
 
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