Hydro

RickB · May 13, 2009

I put this on the Red Power forum this morning and don't have a reply as yet, so I'll try here. I'll apologize for the copy and paste, but only a little:
I have a customer with a Hydro 186 (could be a 100, haven't seen it yet) needing some hydro work. He says it pulled like a mule, then quit moving altogether, forwards or back. I suspect there is a relatively simple solution, although nothing is certain. I have a good understanding of hydrostatic trannys in general, but want to buy a manual specific to this machine and transmission. CaseIH lists GSS14801 as the repair manual for most, if not all, large frame hydro transmissions for about $70 bucks. I know the GSS series is quite topic specific; are there any other supporting manuals for hydros, or will this one cover troubleshooting and repair?

One question on the tractor, can the inching valve be bypassed by looping the incoming and outgoing flow together?

Owen Aaland · May 13, 2009

(quoted from post at 16:33:32 05/13/09) I put this on the Red Power forum this morning and don't have a reply as yet, so I'll try here. I'll apologize for the copy and paste, but only a little:
I have a customer with a Hydro 186 (could be a 100, haven't seen it yet) needing some hydro work. He says it pulled like a mule, then quit moving altogether, forwards or back. I suspect there is a relatively simple solution, although nothing is certain. I have a good understanding of hydrostatic trannys in general, but want to buy a manual specific to this machine and transmission. CaseIH lists GSS14801 as the repair manual for most, if not all, large frame hydro transmissions for about $70 bucks. I know the GSS series is quite topic specific; are there any other supporting manuals for hydros, or will this one cover troubleshooting and repair?

One question on the tractor, can the inching valve be bypassed by looping the incoming and outgoing flow together?

The first thing you need to know is if the hydraulics and PTO still work. If the do not then the most likely problem is a flex plate failure. It is bolted in the flywheel like a clutch would be.

The Foot-N-Inch valve is bypassed by capping the two lines coming out of the hydro housing. This also disables the other shift controls except forward and reverse on the speed lever. Make sure you use steel caps on the fittings and either have the rear wheels jacked up off the ground or have the tractor someplace where there is room enough to shut it off before you hit something.

RickB · May 13, 2009

Thanks. He has PTO and hydraulics. That was my first question.

Owen Aaland · May 13, 2009

The two lines coming out of the hydro case are internally connected to the high pressure relief valves in the hydro unit. One for forward and the other for reverse. They are pilot operated relief valves where the Foot-N-Inch valve serves as the control for them. When you cap off the lines the relief valve will not open no mater how much pressure they are exposed too. That is one reason it can be dangerous operating with the lines capped. The proper way to test is to connect the two lines to a pair of industrial series Foot-N-Inch valves. They are the same as the farm tractor except they have an internal spring.

Common problems for sudden failure are either a relief valve stuck open or a broken line connecting the relief valve to the fitting on the case. Since the relief valves are pilot operated they take very little pressure to open them when they are out of the system. Removing them can cause them to close even if they are stuck open. They way to check them is to use a piece of wire to measure the location of the inner spool before removing them. Remove the jumper pipe and stick the wire through the hole in the fitting.

RickB · May 14, 2009

That's good info. If one relief was stuck open, it would only affect that direction, correct? Thanks.

Hydro

RickB

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Owen Aaland

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RickB

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Owen Aaland

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RickB

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