Ledger plates

Dave H (MI)

Well-known Member
I have this "new to me" IH 115 mower I am going to use in a few weeks to cut some hay. I am going to replace the sections as they look fairly well used. I am wondering about the ledger plates. I hope this is not an obvious question, but exactly what determines if these are worn out? They have what looks like a serrated edge to them and most have pretty strong serration left to them. Other than that, I don't know what I am looking at. Any guidance? The manual is not specific on this.
 
Hi, Dave.

I evaluate ledger plates just about like knife sections. If they're eroded (wear/rust) to where they don't present surface for the sections to cut against, then they'll need replacing.

You can still get the ledger plates and the rivets to hold them in. Biggest question, I would think, is whether it's worth the time to drill out the rivets on the old and drive in new, or simply buy new guards. I haven't seen any variety in the serrations of ledger plates and expect they're all about the same as what come on new guards, unlike the old days when different plates and a whole host of sections for the knife were available to deal with different stalks.

My notion, if they appear to have reasonable serration to them, run them as they are -- might be that they're acceptably sharp or sufficiently serrated under any rust to do their job. Any that are obviously bad or clog badly when worked are subject to consideration for replacement, at which point it's your choice whether to mess with a new ledger plate or just replace the guard.
 
The ones on my 27V that were really worn had a noticeable groove or low spot in the area where the pointy end of the section passes over them. Probably aggravated wear caused by running with too much clearance for the knife. With new sections there was a gap as the knife crossed the ledger; no shear action.

I considered replacing just the ledgers but is was more cost effective to replace the whole guard (which came with new ledger installed). Half the guards were pretty beat up anyway. I found some that worked at TSC.
 
Sorry but that old mower is a POS. Upgrade to 100/1100 as soon as possible.
That said, you have serrated, worn ledger plates. PIA to replace. You must use smooth sections with them. Almost impossible to get holddowns with proper tension and spacing. When a mower is set up right you can pull the bar out with your hand fairly easily. 1 out of 50 won't pass this test.
Before you replace all the guards with smooth non plate surfaces, and all new sections with upper serrated sections , and most likely a new bar, your would be better off with IH/Rouse newer model balanced head mower. Don't throw good money after bad on this deal.
 
POS means "Pretty Operational Stuff"?

While I like the balanced head mowers, they can be very expensive to maintain and if you get a "bargain" with a worn out wobble head you'll be wishing you could cut up a 1x4 to make a pitman arm.

Depending on the acreage being mowed and the time available, any of the old mowers will work well when conditions are dry.

The type of hay makes a big difference but alfalfa on a nice dry day can be cut well with a worn mower with a worn out bar, sections, and ledgers. They got that way cutting, after all.

Native grass that was not cut last year, with lots of dead material on the ground will not cut well even after it dries.
 
Gordo,

Pitman mowers work just as well as a balanced-head for mowing flat fields. Really, the only place the balanced head has an advantage is in mowing road ditches or steep sided areas where the bar goes beyond 25 degrees up or down or so... I don't know for sure how far off level a pitman type can go.

We use the "swather" guards. NO ledger plates, keep the sections sharp (under-serrated, so you can sharpen with a hand grinder) and they will last three or four years easily.
 

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