farmall 200 more horsepower?

Put a over bore sleeve kit in it
Put 8000 ft pistons in it
rejet the carb
match the manifold to head.
Put a high lift cam in it
electronic ignition
Increase the RPM by 20%
change the timing curve

EVERYTHING else costs money
JimN
 
ok im relativly new to this as im only 14 were do i get the over bore sleeve kit, 8,000 ft pistons, electronic ignition and how do i match the manifold to head sorry for 50 million questions
 
you can get alot of them parts right here on ytmag. if you need more help go and to a local machine shop they should be able to point you in the right direction. also seach the archives here on the forum type in super c puller or 200 or 230 puller sure to be lots of topics there.

Andrew
 
All of the above do cost money, but just parts and labor replacement rebuild costs.
Putting stroker kits, and boring the block to accept big sleeves, new rods pistons , and much head scratching is the second part that costs a bunch.
The parts are available here on this sight, or through many suppliers like NAPA.
What is wrong with the power it has now, are you going to pull the tractor in local tractor pulls?
If so it is best to find out what is allowed, what is checked, and where others make changes.
If you are using it as a tractor, maybe it needs a good tuneup and an ignition system timing check (for proper advance operation. JimN
 
From your heading I thought someone was asking how to get 200 more horsepower out of there farmall. My mistake and good luck.
 
Cody, Keep asking questions, there are a lot of good and smart people here that are waiting to help. If someone gives you an answer you don't understand ask again and again. The sleeves and pistons are available from this site or a local machine shop that you trust and who are willing to take time with a young enthusiast. Matching the manifold to the head is an old hot rod trick to make sure the holes in the manifold and the holes in the head are the same size and line up with each other. What do you intend to do use it or pull ? The next model (230) was the same engine and got more horsepower by simply increasing the speed from 1400 RPM to 1800 and upping the compression.
 
Put an over sized bore kit (3-1/4")in it, high compression domed pistons and have the head gone over, including planing the head. The set the governor to run about 150 RPM's over spec.

You'll have more power than you will have traction, and an engine that will live if you want to use it as a tractor.

Be careful young man, a 200 is a light tractor. Too much horsepower can break things on it and hurt you.
 
Gary: I realize your point on the increased rpm, however the 230 is not the same engine. Block part number 354898 R1, R2 or R3 were used in the SA, SC, 100 and 200 and will all take 3-1/4" bore sleeves without any boring.

All other C-113 and C-123 engines do not have 3-1/4" bore available.
 
Cody: Your Farmall 200 should be block part number 354898 R2 or R3. All 354898 blocks have available 3-1/4" bore sleeve kit. Several other respondants suggested this. Now, if you really want to add horsepower increase the stroke. You can do this by using the crank and rods from a C-135 engine used in some swathers, etc. or a 404, 330 and 340 engine. The 404 engine will have the crank bored for the 200 pilot bushing. The other cranks will not be bored for a pilot bushing. A machine shop can bore that hole for you. Changing that engine to C-135 specs will add more horsepower than other suggestions combined.
 
It would really help here if you would let us know how you plan to use the tractor. No sense doing the high buck things unless you plan to use it for tractor pulls, and then you need to keep it legal for the class you pull.
If you intend to do some field work with it, I'd keep it as simple and low cost as possible or you will tear stuff up. Just tune it up for the best power it was intended to have. If you are tearing into the engine so you can learn how it's made and rebuild it, then it wouldn't hurt to things like the oversized sleeves and high altitude pistons because the cost won't be much different than standard bore.
 
Hugh,
Thanks for squaring me away, I thought the 230 was just the next newer 200 with the same 123 CI engine, never was much of either around here smallest I remember was the 400. I know that mostly IH improvements at that time were "Spin faster and more compression" out of the same basic engine
 
Gary: Rather strange why IH did that, all blocks used in A, B, C and SA up to serial number 310300 would take 3" as well as 3-1/8". Then block number 354898 used in SC, 100, 200 ans SA after serial number 310301 had 3 sleeve sizes, 3", 3-1/8" and 3-1/4" bore.

Then blocks used in 130, 230, 140 and 240 had one size only, 3-1/8" bore.
 
I am planning on doing a little bush hoging for a few years while pulling it in an antique tractor pull, i will accasionaly do small tasks ex. pulling hay wagons raking hay ect. i am trying to spin 13.4 x 36's since my tractor has a wide front and fast hitch im looking ot have enough balls to pull in the 4500 pound class
 
Cody,
Wish you all kinds of luck but you would be better off trying to pull in the 3500 - 4000 pound class. Lots of Ms, Allis WC,WD,WD45 can get down to the 4000 # and they trive in 4500. Even stock they have 100 cubic inches and twice as much horsepower on you.
 

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