F-20 Flywheel

SSF-20 · May 2, 2009

I am in the process of overhauling my engine and I am putting my starter setup on. I had no problem pressing my old flywheel off, but needless to say I am not having the same ease putting the ring gear flywheel on. I was planning on making a press tomorrow to bolt onto the flywheel housing and press it back on. I know I will need to apply a little heat to it to maybe ease this process. I would just like to hear some other experienced minds to open my mind to other ideas. Thanks

Old-F20 · May 3, 2009

dont make a puller that bolts to the bellhousing, you'll damage things. first off, it will put a tremendous lateral load on your main bearings, which they are not meant to handle. secondly, cast iron is strong, but it wont withstand those large lateral loads either. the correst way to put one on is to actually have a picec of roundstock threaded to go on the rear of the crank. the end of this tool should be threaded so you can make the 'cage' that bolts down to the flywheel be able to go through it and tighten it down. makes sure you have your dowel pin lined up correctly, or you'll be taking it off again.

im probably sure im not describing it right, if so i can take some pics of the tools ive made.

Nebraska Cowman · May 3, 2009

The orginal IH tool for installing the flywheel was a bell shaped affair that you hit with a heavy sledge hammer.

f20inmi · May 3, 2009

There is another way which could save you from having to fabricate tooling. The bearings folks will tell you that impact loading and bearings don't mix real well. Basically, little indents (brinnelling for those who might be looking to add the technical term to their vocab) left in the race ways will utlimately result in problems later on.

I talked to a fella who pulls and replaces flywheels on F series frequently. He said that he has had good success by taking advantage of thermal expansion. You can set your flywheel on the bbq grill for about half an hour until it's ~300 F. An infrared thermometer works well to gage the temp. Screw a couple bolts in threaded holes to help you handle the flywheel and pin. It doesn't hurt to put the dowel pin in the freezer for a couple hours. Of course, welders gloves are a "must have" to handle the hot flywheel.

You can slide the flywheel on the room temp crank shaft while another slides the pin home. After it was in position you can run the nut down while the flywheel is still hot to get in home position. Took a couple helpers to make it happen; but made a pretty tough job which could have taken minutes happen in less than 30 seconds.

Of course I have the utmost respect for Old-F20 and Cowmans' advice and am sure that they have had good success with their procedures.

I would be interested in seeing your puller. Was it fabricated or a commercial model? Would you be able to post a picture?

Good luck.

Old-F20 · May 3, 2009

(quoted from post at 05:49:30 05/03/09) There is another way which could save you from having to fabricate tooling. The bearings folks will tell you that impact loading and bearings don't mix real well. Basically, little indents (brinnelling for those who might be looking to add the technical term to their vocab) left in the race ways will utlimately result in problems later on.

I talked to a fella who pulls and replaces flywheels on F series frequently. He said that he has had good success by taking advantage of thermal expansion. You can set your flywheel on the bbq grill for about half an hour until it's ~300 F. An infrared thermometer works well to gage the temp. Screw a couple bolts in threaded holes to help you handle the flywheel and pin. It doesn't hurt to put the dowel pin in the freezer for a couple hours. Of course, welders gloves are a "must have" to handle the hot flywheel.

You can slide the flywheel on the room temp crank shaft while another slides the pin home. After it was in position you can run the nut down while the flywheel is still hot to get in home position. Took a couple helpers to make it happen; but made a pretty tough job which could have taken minutes happen in less than 30 seconds.

Of course I have the utmost respect for Old-F20 and Cowmans' advice and am sure that they have had good success with their procedures.

I would be interested in seeing your puller. Was it fabricated or a commercial model? Would you be able to post a picture?

Good luck.

what does 300 degrees do to a felt oil seal????????

f20inmi · May 5, 2009

Good question. I was concerned with the same thing. I oiled the felt seal before installation and it survived fine. 10 years and no leaks at the rear main. Wish I could say the same for the belt pulley and pto lever seals. The tractor still likes to mark its territory.

F-20 Flywheel

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