Spliting a Super M

I need to do the clutch on my Super M (no TA) this year. I've never split anything that weighs this much. Any comments or advice/experience is welcome.

Thanks

make yourself some good stands to bolt on the sides of the tractor.

Heavy 6 inch caster wheels on those stands work well so you can roll it back. Also an over head hoist is nice to have.

All i can tell ya is build a nice set of splitting stands that are heavy enough and fully adjustable for width and hight and make them heavy enough to support any future tractor splitting . Find a nice set of old metal wheels of 5 inches or larger something to make each side adjustable ( two bulldog implement jacks with a few mods. would work ) Make up to side mounting plates that are at 10 inches wide and over a foot long for future mounting holds to be drilled so you can bolt thru the frame rails . make one side of it able to slide on the bottom support bar for width adjustment here again for any future tractor splitting . I made mine out of 2x2 x1/4 box tubing with one piece of 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 for the slider and hooked the one side to it that way i could split anything that had a frame from and H all the way up to a 1586 . Over the years and different tractors to split i made adapters to fit many different tractors with those stands . If i just knew how to post pictures i would have put some picture on here . When i made them i needed something to split a 706 and they were built sorta around that tractor in a rush and they were not fully adjustable then . I started out first with two pieces of 1/4 plate that were 10 inches wide and a foot long and using a piece of cardboard made a templet of the bolt hole pattern and started drilling holes . I then bolted the two plates to the frame rails and started with the frame work coming off the plates at about a 45 degree angle down to the cross bar that i made 46 inches long . Then i kept it off the floor a foot clamped the cross bar to the side braces and as i had the bars already tacked marked it square and with a torch made the cuts so the braces would fit on top of the cross bar and tacked weld it into place added two more support braces from the cross bar up to the side bar for additional support and tacked them onto place then i made up the adjustable legs and made the casters and welded them to the outside of the spreader bar then i removed the tacked up home brewed splitting stand and set to welding it all up added two more braces from the ft of the mounting plates as the arms coming off the plates were to the rear and the two braces were from the ft. of the plates down on the legs about a foot . Worked great on that tractor BUT when the next job came in it was to wide and out came the torches and that is when i cut one side loose added the 2 1/2 x2 1/2 box tubing to the one side so it would slide Then the next tractor came in and it was to narrow and here come the torches out again and i had to replace the cross bar with a 4 foot one So the bottom bar went from 46 to 48 and with the adapters it will now split from a Farmall A up thru a 1586 . Now it may be a bit over kill but i have always believed that if lets say 3/16 steel will do 1/2 inch is better.

This web site will show you how to post pictures.
You can use any of free photo services. I use tinypic.com since it requires less typing. You need your pictures stored on your computer so any of these free photo services can access your pics. I have mine stored on My Documents.
There's been some changes in the last few years on posting pics. You can now use the "Optional Image URL" for posting one or more pictures, you place your pic websites in there that start with http: and end with jpg and once you have that website in there place a comma after jpg, and type in your next pic website I usually stop at 3 pictures. Hal

http://my.voyager.net/~ancestorfarms/ytmag/

According to my manual you change that clutch with out splitting the tractor. Here's where I read it. Hal