806 Oil in Coolant

I was working up the other day with the vibrashank. The engine oil pressure was fine (~65 psi @2400rpm) and the coolant was 7/8 of the way up the gauge where it usually is when it pulls hard (usually sits at 1/2 idling around, is this normal? Our 966 never leaves the C line). When I tried pulling it in 4th low, it began to overheat, so I went to 3rd. After I finished, I opened the radiator cap to find the following:
1)No steam came from the radiator, so it wasn't boiling and the coolant was over the grate.
2)No hiss of pressure upon removal of the cap, so it doesn't seem to have any pressure
3)The coolant in the radiator was only warm to the touch while the lower radiator hose was scalding hot
4)There are black clumps floating all over in the top of the radiator that were not there when I started. They look like oil. I had to add coolant before I started from sitting over winter, but there is no apparent external leak.

I am thinking either oil cooler or head gasket. Is there any good way to test which one it is without a ton of disassembly? Also, I am wondering how difficult the D-361 is to do engine work on. Is this a call someone with the special IH tools and knowledge deal or something that can be done by myself?

Thanks.

Your water pump may not be circulating the coolant or the themostat may be blocked closed. The internal parts of the water pump may be worn off. You could still have an oil cooler leaking too. Hal

Al wright here what tractor we talking about the 806 or the 966 ?? If ya have oil in the coolant then it is most likely the oil cooler If you are getting compression in to the rad on a 806 it is most likely the head gskt . IF you have coolant in the oil thenit could be the head gskt But before i started pulling the head i would drop the pan and pressure up the rad to about 18 lbs and start looking up. IF we are talking about the 966 then first i would pull the oil cooler and have it tested and if it is bad then replace it IF not then put it back on and drop the pan and pressure up the rad and look up and see where she is dripping from Could be pin holes in the sleeves . As for a barnyard mechanic rebuilding aD361 in and 806 there is a lot that has to be done and it really is not the job for the average guy . With the years on that engine and the nature of that engine and in chassis is not the way to go . As over the years they have core shift and to get away from that it is wise to rebore the block .010 and install the 10 over sleeves . I myself like to have it done by someone that can line bore the bottom end then set up off the center line of the crank bore and true center bore the block. . This way when it goes back together everything is in line . Then the sleeves must be pressed in NOT BEAT IN WITH A BLOCK OF WOOD AND A HAMMER . Then ya got to mic. all the bores along with the pistons and FIT each piston to each hole with the proper clearance as when the sleeves are pressed in ya still get wrinkling of the sleeve and this must be honed out . And here again ya need the proper hone and bore gauges and mic.'s. Now the engine on the 966 is much more forgiving and if the crank is good and does not need turned then that one can be done under the apple tree .

It is the 806 with the D-361 that has oil in the radiator. It has 5000 hrs on it right now. I was noticing that under heavy load there is a pretty loud tapping noise and at night you see a dull red flame out of the muffler, touching the rain cap. Could that tapping noise be a bent/ not closing velve or something? It burned the aluminized coating off of the baffles of the muffler. It only makes the noise under load. Thanks for the info.

Well , I know that at 5000 hours if they are true then she maybe in need of a valve adjustment . Now as to the oil in the rad . are you sure that it is oil and not carbon . Do you see any leakage on the outside of the head. And really the only place oil can get into the rad is the oil cooler . Now if she is getting ready to puk and head gskt then they can under load start to push compression into the rad. As to it standing FIRE under load YEP they will do that . Ya should see mine on the bagger at night she will show ya fire and smoke . and they will burn the paint off the muffler . The bad thing here is we can talk about this and that but i can not see the tractor and check it out in person . So there can be a lot of could be's . And since nobody has chipped into the KITTY to get me some long range transportation at high speed unless your with in a reasonable distance all we can do is talk about it.

By the way, I have the IH RD style pump, and it is equipped with a fuel pressure gauge at the bottom of the dashboard. What is that gauge supposed to read at Rated RPM? I was seeing 63 psi @2400 rpm.

I suppose to adjust the valves, the gas tank needs to be lifted up to actually see them while adjusting them, right? It looks like the rocker shaft, lifters, and rocker arms might be sunk down low enough to slide the valve cover out from the side, though. I appreciate the background info, even if you can't fly out here and do it. I know a former IH dealer mechanic that does good work if I get in over my head.

Thanks.

The valve cover can be removed with out lifting the fuel tank Ya just have to remove the one support bracket Ya adjust the valves with the engine NOT RUNNING and ya adjust six valves at a time . At the moment here i have a Abe Lincoln John Kennedy head ach and i am out of here for the night . ask me tomorrow and i will tel ya how. NIGHT.