I got the 300 back together. Recon. head-points, condenser, plugs,wires rebuilt carb, the works. Re-checked for TDC and proper firing order. I have good spark and compression and fuel to carb and she wont fire. After 7 or 8 revs, she backfires out carb. I didnt monkey with distributor and am wondering if that could be the problem. I noticed that the bolts that you back off so you can adj. the timing were loose. I did not turn dist. though. Is there a way to make sure dist. is properly set before it starts? Any help GREATLY appreciated. THANKS! I have left it the original 6vdc, + Grd. With new battery. Thanks
- Thread starter makin'hay
- Start date
Peculiar Farmer
Member
Not trying to insult your intellegence, you stated you have the proper firing order but do you have the #1 cylinder closest to the radiator?
TomH in PA
Well-known Member
Are you sure it's on TDC of the compression stroke? It looks the same at the top of the exhaust stroke.
You need to pull No1 plug near the radiator and bring No1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke.
Then remove the distrubutor cap and see where your rotor is pointing. It should be at the No1 plug tower. If it isn't you need to pull the distributor and turn the rotor to the No1 plug tower and reinstall it.
If it points to No1 you need to check your plug wires to make sure they're in the correct firing order on the distributor cap and to the correct sparkplug. Your rotor probably turns CW and your plug wires should be in this order on the cap.
2-1
4-3
While your engine is at TDC check to make sure the No1 plug wire is connected to No1 sparkplug. Then the next plug wire to No3, then No4 and No2. You may have the plug wires crossed causing it to backfire. Hal
Then remove the distrubutor cap and see where your rotor is pointing. It should be at the No1 plug tower. If it isn't you need to pull the distributor and turn the rotor to the No1 plug tower and reinstall it.
If it points to No1 you need to check your plug wires to make sure they're in the correct firing order on the distributor cap and to the correct sparkplug. Your rotor probably turns CW and your plug wires should be in this order on the cap.
2-1
4-3
While your engine is at TDC check to make sure the No1 plug wire is connected to No1 sparkplug. Then the next plug wire to No3, then No4 and No2. You may have the plug wires crossed causing it to backfire. Hal
I"ve got the correct firing order, and at this point I dont think I could be insulted if you tried! I appreciate ANY advice. I have checked TDC 3 times to make sure I am on comp. stroke, pulled cap, checked rotor position, checked plug wire position, 1-3-4-2 from radiator being #1. I also checked if #1 fires between timing marks and not before TDC. Spark is good. I did pull all plugs and they are dry. I do have gas in carb bowl and tank. Hmmm. Thanks
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Three pieces of the puzzle stick out:
Intake manifold leak at head or cracked/hole to exhaust.
Improperly adjusted valves (many methods of correct in archives)
Old gasoline. Put in fresh in entire system. (no mixing) save the old and put it in at 20% of a tank each time. JimN
Intake manifold leak at head or cracked/hole to exhaust.
Improperly adjusted valves (many methods of correct in archives)
Old gasoline. Put in fresh in entire system. (no mixing) save the old and put it in at 20% of a tank each time. JimN
Fresh gas. I have checked valves again. I cannot see any obvious signs of intake leak. New gaskets and I torqued the manifold to spec. I am not sure what you mean by cracked/hole to exhaust? Do you mean cracked head? I just picked it up from machine shop friday. Is there a way to check intake for leak? It acts as if it has no gas as it will take 10-12 revs before it backfires. When I say that, it doesnt backfire as you would think of a normal backfire. It just kind of sputters out carb. AARRGGHHH!!! I am glad its raining as now I can babysit it. Thanks
KenB_Texas
Member
I know you say you have checked rotor position, so this may not be much help.
But I have been known to accidentally stab a distributor 180 deg out and left it there. If you know about it it doesn't hurt to rearrange the spark plug wires.
But now the next guy to buy it may be a little confused.
But I have been known to accidentally stab a distributor 180 deg out and left it there. If you know about it it doesn't hurt to rearrange the spark plug wires.
But now the next guy to buy it may be a little confused.
I just did everything over again. Pulled plug wires, cap, rotor, re-gapped points, checked TDC, re-installed everything, and she FIRED!!!! I dont know what it was, I probably had a brain freeze and thought I did something I didnt. I completely re did engine, sleeves, rings, valves, seats. Now I cant get her in gear when she is running! Tried starting her in gear with clutch in and not enough juice. She starts rolling a hare and peters out. I got this from an old guy retiring. He said he put clutch in her in 1991 and never drove it after he replaced it. When I bought it it was mostly together except steering, hoses, wires.... and I could not push in clutch. After we unloaded her, the clutch went down. Now I guess I will try pushing her in gear tomorrow. Any other ideas? Thanks for everything
Maybe I was just lucky, but here is how I did mine. Put the #1 piston to TDC, then with the dist. cap off, rotate the distributor slowly until a spark arches accrossed the points. Put the cap and wires back on and give it another try.
Clutch. Does the spring return the pedal to the deck? Do you have about 7/8 inch freeplay when you push in the pedal? If the clutch was replaced and the tractor was not run after that, I would be thinking that they installed the disk wrong side forward. Which will mean another tractor split.
Steve
Clutch. Does the spring return the pedal to the deck? Do you have about 7/8 inch freeplay when you push in the pedal? If the clutch was replaced and the tractor was not run after that, I would be thinking that they installed the disk wrong side forward. Which will mean another tractor split.
Steve
I did the same thing with dist. but with coil wire zip tied 1/8 in. from dist post. She runs great now. The clutch acts as if it is fine when pushing in pedal. The free travel seems fine and I can push in clutch 4-5 in. I dont know if the pads could be stuck to flywheel or what. I am going out now to check. Thanks
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