glow plug 'controller'?

Our Phone System is Down!

Please use the Contact us Form

We are working to resolve the issue ASAP! Thanks for your patience!

Evan350

Member
Hi. I have a 656D. A few weeks ago I learned something new (which I now see was mentioned in this forum before)...don't have the glow plugs active while the battery charter is also on. So, after frying all my plugs, I ordered new ones. My question is about the green sheet of paper that came with them saying the plugs are warranted only if connected to the proper controller.

Looking at the wiring diagram in my 656 operators guide, it appears the circuit has just the momentary switch, the meter, and the plugs in parallel. Is there anything else in the glow plug circuit? Does the meter have any additional resistance within it beyond the fraction of an Ohm needed to move the needle? Is the 'controller' in this case just a thumb on the button?
 
Evan: Are you sure your using the right glow plugs. The only controller you have is you, you push the button they are on, you let off the buttom they are off. I had both 560 and 656 years ago and one could hold those glow plugs on 4 minutes and never hurt them. Wouldn't matter how much charger or booster power you had behind them as long as you maintained 12 volts.
 
Like Hugh points out the glow plug “controller” on the 656D is your thumb! And I suspect the glow plug mfr’s lawyers added the warning to the package to make it easier to for them to not honor warranty claims.

That aside, I’m surprised the glow plugs failed on account of the battery charger. Usually it’s the other way around: Extra current draw caused by energized glow plugs causes the charger to burn up.

Most likely the glow plugs failed either from old age or from being left energized too long.
 
No problem with controller, it is your thumb like Hugh said. However, when using a charger the voltage can get very high when using high charge rate like boost. I have seen many glow plugs blown with a charger, and might add that normal 14.5 volts of the charging system may blow them sometimes also. If you let go of the glow plugs after it is running and the voltage comes up to that normal range and then reapply the glow plugs you are taxing them to their limit. If I wanted to clean an engine exhaust up in that situation I always throttle way down , maybe even put lights on , then press glow plugs again and speed engine back up to where you want it. . If you have to use the boost to get it started, with charger off, hit starter for a few seconds, hold glow plugs proper time , hit starter and now turn on the boost and quickly shut off charger when she fires up that way voltage will stay in range.
 
Thanks everyone. I just wanted to make sure I understood the wiring. The replacements I received say "WELLMAN 6A477G017 V11" and they match the ones I took out. I'm pretty sure my problem was due to overvoltage, since I was using the charger's boost setting trying to get the engine spinning at good speed at 25 degrees. The boost made the engine spin fast enough, but when it didn't fire, what's when my folly started to dawn on me. Afterward, I used a multimeter to measure the resistance of each plug and they all read open.

I've only had the 656 two years, so who knows how old those glow plugs were that I took out.
 
Evan: I might add, in my days of 560 and 656 I would not have used anything for a boost, other than another 12 volt vehicle.

My tractors had circulating block heaters, best battery saver ever built. If they were too far away from electricity and had to go, out came the cast iron fry pan full of charcoal. 3" from the oil pan and you have a summer like start in 15 min. Make sure you have no fuel or oil leaks, no combustable debris around engine, and DON'T USE THIS ON A GAS ENGINE.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top