Cub questions

Anonymous-0 · Mar 4, 2009

Crank should be back tomorrow. Bearings, rings and gaskets are ordered. Replacement head should come in by the end of the week. I'm getting closer to going back together. I'm deeper into this than planned ($) so while I don't want to miss anything crucial I don't want to break the bank. The head is used. Does it have to be milled or is it likely to be ok? The clutch disc looks pretty good. Does anyone know how thick a new one would be? If it's close I would like to reuse this one. What else should I do now that I'll be sorry I didn't do later as long as I am this deep into the motor? I'm sure I will have lots more question upon re-assembly. Thanks

Janicholson · Mar 4, 2009

Check the head with a straight edge (real machine grade tool, not a wooden level) and measure with a .002 feeler gauge if in any direction of placement of the straight edge, the gauge will go under the straight edge, it needs to be surfaced. A minimum clean up cut should be satisfactory. JimN

Rudi · Mar 4, 2009

(quoted from post at 06:40:26 03/04/09) Crank should be back tomorrow. Bearings, rings and gaskets are ordered. Replacement head should come in by the end of the week. I'm getting closer to going back together. I'm deeper into this than planned ($) so while I don't want to miss anything crucial I don't want to break the bank. The head is used. Does it have to be milled or is it likely to be ok? The clutch disc looks pretty good. Does anyone know how thick a new one would be? If it's close I would like to reuse this one. What else should I do now that I'll be sorry I didn't do later as long as I am this deep into the motor? I'm sure I will have lots more question upon re-assembly. Thanks

CVhief:

I just put on a new to me head.. used. Checked it on my bench with a good steel straight edge. Looked good, went on after it was wire wheeled and cleaned up. It does NOT require milling in most cases. These heads do not require the tolerances of many newer engines, the C-60 is a forgiving mill. As long as there is no obvious twists, cups or dish to it, it should be ok. Remember to use a new head gasket, new head bolts.. they are available at any good fastener supplier, use C5A or Kopper Kote on the threads and maybe High Tack on the gasket itself.

For the clutch information and other info from the service manuals, check my Cub Manual Server Also, it is important that you torque the head according to the directions in the GSS-1411. Failure to do so WILL result in a cracked head.. I know.. been there done that... Check out the Clutch specs also.

El Toro · Mar 4, 2009

Make sure you prime the oil pump and use lots of oil during the engine reassembly. The Cubs seem to have a problem losing their oil pressure so make sure you have pressure when you first start it. Their oil pump is installed from the rear of the engine and doesn't hang vertically from the engine as most oil pumps do. Hal

Cub questions

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

Janicholson

Well-known Member

Rudi

Member

El Toro

Well-known Member

Similar threads