1941 H Magneto timing questions

It has been asked many times and I have been reading the replies. A lot of good information. My problem is self inflicted. Trying to get our H running after sitting 5 years. Sometime in its life the mag had been gutted and converted to a battery/coil setup. I am looking for some clarification on the Distrubutor Gear timing marks. The rotor is marked wih "L" and "R". The service manual states to use "R" for clockwise magnetos. What defines a CW magneto the direction of the Distributor Rotor or the Rotor shaft? I pulled mine apart to clean and grease and didn't notice the 2 markings. I thought there was only one. I re-assembled using the "R" mark since the Distributor Rotor turns CW. She starts but runs extremely rich, my assumption if I am on the wrong mark the ignition timing would be retarded, causing overrich combustion. May be it is time for a re-manf magneto.
Thanks in advance for your help

The timing should click the impulse coupling just at the TDC mark. Retard the mag a bit. turn the engine till TDC timing mark is perfect, then turn mag slowly until it clicks. Lock down.
The rich mixture is carb related, not timing. Timing has to be so far off that missing happens radicallyy for any smoke to appear. The carb needs attention. JimN

Janicholson has it right. I recently ran into a similar situation on an A. PO had "converted" mag to an external coil and fed the points through the kill switch terminal on the side of the mag. A helper mistakenly took the rotor gear out trying to get to the points to file/clean them. I could not make either of the marks--- the "L" or the "R"--- get the rotor button anywhere near the #1 plug wire position when the #1 piston was at TDC on the compression stroke. Being the tinkerer that I am, I finally set the gear so the rotor button aimed at #1 plug wire hole (approximately 2:00 o'clock position) when the #1 piston was at TDC on the compression stroke. Set at this, the impulse clicked, and she fired right up.

The R mark is correct for an H. Running rich would be caused by carburetion problems.

Your mag is on the money or it wouldnt start or run. The rich problam is carb.

You may have the main jet adjusting scrxw opened too much on the carburetor. Hal

I certainly appreciated all your timely replies. I do appreciate your time. I must give more history on the problem. It is a 6 volt positive ground tractor. We have had for about 30 years. As mentioned before it was already converted to battery/coil when we got it. It has been sitting in the barn the last 5-6 years. We stuck a new battery in, cleaned the points and fueled up. First attempt to start The gas was running out the carb. Figured dirty needle valve or sunk float. Pulled carb and purchased rebuild kit and float. Set the main fuel screw 3 turns and the idle adjusting at 1-1/2 turns. When we got it running it was rich, even after warm up and a couple trips down the road. I have turned the main fuel in to 1-1/2 turns. It does not respond like I would think. The engine is tired but I think it would still be tunable.
That is what got me thinking the ignition lead was retarded too much for complete combustion. I must confess I do not understand the impulse coupling yet. I see it as ignition retarder for easy starting. At idle speed I would think it would be 1 to 1 which would advance the timing. When I put the mag back together I did have #1 on TDC compression and made the #1 wire on the cap where ever the rotor was pointing.
When I get back to the barn the carb is coming off and I will go through again. I will mark the pulley at 10,15,20,25,30,35 degrees and put a timing light on it.
I have the following questions: Is the coil or condenser bad? Is the ignition lead correct at running speed? Could the new idle jet be too big? Fuel level too high in bowl?

Ok, It is running very nice now. I pulled the carb back apart and checked the new parts against old parts. I noticed the air bleed holes in the main mixing tube were larger on old parts. I put old back in and she runs pretty darn good now. Thinking about it now, I ordered the rebuild kit from the number on the brass tag on carb. Not thinking this tractor was originally Distallate/kerosene. I checked around to find the A/F ratio for kerosene but didn"t find anything. I bet it is a lot richer than gas. Also checked serial number and it is a 1940 not a "41. We have had tractor for about 30 yrs, sometime early in its life it was converted to gas only I assume. Are my observations correct on carb rebuild kit?