Joint in steering shaft of H part ll

Paul Shuler · Mar 2, 2009

I took out the 4 snap rings and placed a large socket on the top and a small one on the bottom and I have applied a lot of pressure on my C clamp to no avail. Am I doing this all wrong or should it be this hard? Sorry one photo is on its side.
Paul

Nebraska Cowman · Mar 2, 2009

Yeah. You want it in a vice and then rap the yoke with a hammer to start it. If I were there I would show you. That C clamp ain't gonna cut it.

Janicholson · Mar 2, 2009

A pair of 3/4" thick plates with 3/4 inch holes about 3 inches apart And some grade 5 fine thread bolts can take the place of the C clamp.
The pressure will be about 3 times what you can generate with the clamp. Other than that, you are thinking correctly.
If it were on the bench, one half would be placed at rest on the top of the open vice jaws, supporting one half of the joint, while the other side was whacked with a socket held in a pair of pliers to knock the cap uut of one end, then turned over and whacked the other way to shove the other cap out. Then the remainder would be put in the vice with the bare trunions (inner bearing stubs) resting on the vice and the other half whacked apart. It is a reality trip for sure. JimN

TractormanNC · Mar 2, 2009

If you are replacing the yoke and cups, TORCH the old one out. Done many that way.

Paul Shuler · Mar 2, 2009

I hear what your saying cow man about the vice. Was hopeing not to have to take so much stuff apart to get at it. Looks like the the light bar and the box with the light switch and the gauges up in the hood and all that stuff will have to come off to get the steering shaft off the tractor.

Allan in NE · Mar 2, 2009

For sure,

Get that shaft off the tractor and to a heavy vice or anvil.

Then like Cowman says, work it over with the sharp end of a 2-lb machine hammer striking the yoke(s)shoulder, not the "eyes".

Allan

mattofvinings · Mar 2, 2009

Arbor press anyone? 8)

Nebraska Cowman · Mar 2, 2009

No, no, just take the steering wheel off. but look close at the end of the threads lots of times they are peened over to keep the nut from working off. Use an angle grinder .

TractormanNC · Mar 2, 2009

Should have said CROSS and cups.

Allan in NE · Mar 2, 2009

Nope,

Using a press of any sort to change out a U-joint is a total waste of time as far as I'm concerned.

If a fella knows how to operate that hammer, they take about 2 minutes.

It's one of those deals like changing out a tie-rod end. Once ya know where to strike and how to use the sharp end of the hammer head, they just "jump" apart. Same way going back together.

Allan

rustyfarmall · Mar 2, 2009

In my early days of turning wrenches, I tried using those "special" u-joint tools and found them to be just about the most frustrating chunks of steel ever imagined. Went to work in another shop and the boss showed me the hammer and vise trick. After learning that trick, it took me longer to get the driveshaft out from underneath the car than it did to change the u-joint.

Rollie NE PA · Mar 2, 2009

A pitman arm puller ought to pop that puppy.

Bob S. · Mar 2, 2009

Howdy
This is the very reason that the hammer was invented.
Bob S.

Paul Shuler · Mar 2, 2009

got lots of good advise. I'll give it a try. That joint is so worn I'm worried it will come apart someday when I least expect it. Or worse when my son is mowing with it.

Joint in steering shaft of H part ll

Paul Shuler

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Nebraska Cowman

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Janicholson

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TractormanNC

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Paul Shuler

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Allan in NE

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mattofvinings

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Nebraska Cowman

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TractormanNC

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Allan in NE

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rustyfarmall

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Rollie NE PA

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Bob S.

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Paul Shuler

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