Stuck Bolts and Heating Techniques

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I have 2 stuck wheel weight bolts and 1 stuck rim clamp bolt on the rear rims of my Farmall M. None of them are threaded, just rust locked. I drilled holes in each one on the edge so that penetrating oil could get to the seam, but I need to heat them too.

When heating something like this, do you heat the cast wheel to expand it off the bolt, or try to heat the bolt and let it cool down and hope it broke a little free?

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Thanks
 
Drill all the way through, then heat the bolt shank with an acetlyene torch until it (the bolt) is red, then let it cool and drive it out with a large tipped Drift punch. JimN
 
I had some wheel weight bolts stuck like yours on my M. I didn't make progress till I cut the heads (recessed) off the bolts. Then you can beat the bolt both ways after the weights are removed. Red hot heat will burn the rust out. These are pretty durable, don't be too delicate with them.
 
I Heat it up goot and hot and then spray it with a good penetrating oil like kroil or PB blaster. Not WD-40, it doesn"t work like it says. Then I would heat it up again and try to pound it out. The hub is pretty tough so you can rap on it pretty good.
 
As above, if you can get a little motion started by going opposite ways this seems to increase the penetrant action.

One theory on the red-hot bolt is that despite "loosening" the rusted "grip" is that the steel has nearly no strength and it can be formed somewhat as it is exiting.

While you don't have a bolt head, I've used an impact wrench with success when the bolt is just cooling to a dull red or the red has just disappeared.
 
Over the years I've found, more bolts or pins are ruined by too small a hammer. I would use a piece of 58 rod about six inches long hit it with a mall. You can't hurt that cast wheel. Smack it hard. Bernie Steffen
 
Thanks guys. Here is what she looks like right now, except I have the wheel centers off hte axles now too. I'll keep ya posted!

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