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SMTA hyd

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hello, I have been working on getting my SMTA back into operational condition. I replaced the under the tank resevoir and then added an aftermarket valve for the remotes. Should the fill cap be vented on this system? What should the fill spout be? I have a 2 inch long pipe nipple with a pipe cap on it right now. About the valve in the tank, is it for one way cylinders only? I have all of the ports plugged right now, will it matter if the tractor is operated with the handle in the forward or pulled back position? Thanks, MikeS
 

Mike,

How did you plumb in the aftermarket valve?

Unless you hooked it into one of the outlets from the hydraulic reservoir, it will not work. The SMTA has an open center hydraulic system which means that there must only be one path for the oil to flow. If you don't hook it to one of the outlets on the reservoir, you create two paths for the oil to flow, and it will never develop any pressure.

Normally you should operate the tractor with the lever on the reservoir forward unless you need hydraulics.

If you plug all the holes and run with the lever back, you will hear constant squealing from the reservoir as the tractor pumps oil past the relief valve. The oil will get VERY hot VERY quickly, and the pump will burn up eventually. It'll also be wasting power and fuel.
 
Mike - The reservoir filler cap should be vented. The original cap is sort of a knob-shaped affair with an integral vent. However if the OEM cap is missing a 1/2" pipe cap with a small (3/32" or so) hole drilled thru it works.

The valve in the reservoir tank (the "Liftall" valve) is for one-way cylinders. If all the Liftall outlet ports are plugged you should operate the tractor with the lever in the center (cylinder hold) position. However the forward (cylinder drop) position is OK too. The rear (cylinder lift) lever position supplies full pressure to the plugged ports and will dead-head the pump if the outlet ports are plugged - not good(!)

If you have added an aux 4-way valve the valve supply should be tee'd direct from the pump supply line. To use the 4-way, pull Liftall lever all the way back and latch it there. This will provide hyd pressure to the 4-way valve.
 
I plumbed the valve by teeing into the pressure and suction lines going to the pump. It pulled the engine down when I tried the remote valve but I have not pulled it out of the shop to actually try it yet.
 
Just curious but why did you replace the reservoir?

I thought those things were pretty indestructible.

K
 
on the aftermarket hydraulic valve have the relief valve adjusted so in on pulls engine rpms down a little.If set to high in a short time you will break cam gear,been there done that.Had mounted picker on mine when that happend.Good luck Scott
 
The previous owner had stripped the tractor down for tractor pulling, so I am mostly trying to get all of the parts that I have accumulated back on the tractor. I have now gotten the Hyd, belt pulley gear box and hitch back on. Sounds like I need to locate oneof the cast knobs with the vent in it like on my other M's to cap off the tank.
 
(quoted from post at 19:07:47 03/01/09) The previous owner had stripped the tractor down for tractor pulling, so I am mostly trying to get all of the parts that I have accumulated back on the tractor. I have now gotten the Hyd, belt pulley gear box and hitch back on. Sounds like I need to locate oneof the cast knobs with the vent in it like on my other M's to cap off the tank.
Click to expand...


That makes sense. Did you have a hard time finding a reservoir? The reason I ask is I have a SM that's a bit of a mongrel that I would like to change to the external setup on. It's using the belly pump as the reservoir right now which isn't all that bad but the belly pump leaks and the spot the drilled for the pickup is in the most inconvenient location possible.

I've been watching but I just don't see those reservoirs show up for sale.

K
 
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