1206 won't move

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
My 1206 has been in shed all winter,not run since last fall.Started it today to plow some snow & it won't move.No steering,brakes,but the remotes work to lift blade up & down. Hydraulic oil level is ok,any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanx
 
Bleed mcv pump by taking small plug out below oil cooler lines on mcv. (low side of ta is shot or it would pull without hydraulic pressure provided clutch and rest of power train is operatable.
 
0k,will try that,is this common after the tractor sits for a long time? and yes the TA does slip under load on low side. thanks DG
 
removed plug from below cooler tubes,oil dripped out,but really slow.still no luck.its been cold last few days -30 deg.C,but its always worked good before,so is there something else to try?
 
my 1206 had a hard time picking up hydraulics after a long sitting when I got it. I played with the throttle until it worked finally. Other guys here know more than me on these, so see what all they say.
 
Did you run engine with plug removed. Normally if rear pump works as you indicated enough fluid is able to get through filter for front pump to operate also, however it has a harder job of pulling the oil so you might change filter and or add about 5 gallons extra oil to cover suction tubes. Once your pump runs dry for a while it may take reving the engine to get it to prime up with the plug removed. Moisture in oil will cause ice crystals to slow flow through filter but I still think it will prime up .
 
The hydraulic oil pumps in these tractors are both below the full oil level. The inlet to the hydraulic filter is above that level to keep the oil from draining out when changing the filter. The other place where the suction side of the pump is above the oil level is where the clutch housing and the rear frame are joined together. An leak of the seals at either of these locations will allow air to enter and can cause problems when out of use for long periods. Over filling the system with hydraulic fluid will keep any air from entering and should solve any lose of prime problems. The down side of running the fluid level a couple if inches over full is that you will have some of the extra oil coming out when the filter is changed.

If you can not pick up the prime by turning the steering wheel with the engine running, you can take out the access plug for the flow divider orifice. It is located on the back side of the MCV, takes a 5/8 inch wrench. The orifice is first in line on the pressure side of the pump. (The plug you took out is located on the other side of the flow divider valve. There will be no flow there until you get enough flow to move the flow divider valve.) Start the engine with the plug out. Be prepared to shut down quickly. The orifice will shoot out three gallons per minute (five GPM on 86 and newer series) at any engine speed. If that still doesn't work you can add air pressure to the fill tube on the range transmission cover.
 
Did you get it going yet. I agree with Owen , except I just double checked fluid flow diagram on the mcv and eiether plug the flow is through the orfice and flow divider spool does not need to move. I do normally take out the plug he describes but as it is larger , but it is a lot easier to tell someone where the other plug is. A lot of guys around here direct a nipko heater onto pump areas to warm things up a bit also.
 
Got it going,removed 5/8 plug on rear of mcv, then started tractor.I had oil there in 5 seconds.Thanks for the help guys.
 

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