farmall h field resistor

Jay SD

New User
According to the testing I have done, it says I have a bad field resistor on my 4 position light switch. I grounded the f terminal on the generator to the positive ground and it charges. This is still 6 volt. The local dealer does not carry a resistor but has a new switch. The new switch doesn"t have a resistor. Is it built in the new switch? Will another type of resistor work? I checked it with an ohmeter and it tests good for wire not being broke anyway. If I jump this it will damage something else, any suggestions?
 
As a last shot on your existing resistor, did you check the continuity between the rivets. If ound continuity on the eire but not on the rivets on mine and fxed it with a couple dabs of solder.

You can also replace it with an off-the-shelf resistor from Radio shack. Not sure how it's rated, but I think maybe JimN or BobM posted it a few times. It'll be tedious, but if you can search the archives and find it . . . or maybe one of them will see this and jump in.

I've had poor results with the replacement switches.
 
Your tests are all good but do you have ground from the sw to ground. Use your meter to see if the sw body is grounded as it has to be grounded for the system to work as thats probably your problem. With the engine running you can place a jumper from sw to the pos ground at the battery and see if that makes it charge.
 
The issue may be the switch ground. If the switch body is not grounded to the tractor frame successfully, it will not charge on either L or H or D or B. If there is ocntenuity from the F terminal on the Gen to the light switch resistor, and through the resistor, JimN
 
I agree with JimN below. Problem may be a bad ground at the ammeter box. (For the generator to work the LHDB switch must be SOLIDLY grounded to the tractor frame.)

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On a more practical matter if the problem turns out to be a bad switch/resistor, I highly recommend replacing the original cutout relay for a voltage regulator. Your battery will be maintained better and will enjoy a longer life. The LHDB switch then becomes simply a light switch with two "off" positions.
 
You may well want to put on a voltage regulator as suggested. If you prefer to stay with the high low charge, I would run a ground wire right from the light switch back to the generator. Eleminates all poor grounding of switch to cover, cover to box, box to steering post, steering post to transmission. Hook wire to grounded end of resistor.
 
Bob, good advice,
and best option from engineering and technical and user friendly standpoint, but i have the opposite luck to what should be true!
the only generator equipped tractor on the farm with a reliable charging system has been my H with the LHDB switch and factory wiring (lots of tape these days).

One non-IH is a lucas system so that really isn't a charging system, more of a slot machine ;)

karl f
 
Karl - Having recently experienced a battery explosion on my Minnie-Mo UTU I've become extremely leery of manual-controlled charging systems.

In the incident with the UTU, the cause an inexperienced operator running the tractor continuously for several hours with the switch on "high charge". This severely overcharged a nearly new 6 volt battery until escaping hydrogen gas somehow found a spark. The resulting explosion literally split the battery in two. (Fortunately the operator was off the tractor when it let go...)

One non-IH is a lucas system so that really isn't a charging system, more of a slot machine ;)
Ain't THAT the truth Karl!!
 

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