Farmall H clutch

I need to press the clutch all the way down to shift. It doesn"t slip until the clutch is nearly compressed all the way down. Is there an adjustment to make the clutch react sooner or is there something wrong with my clutch?

What are some options? Thanks, Dan

Although I am not overly familiar with the way the "H" is setup. It sounds like you do not have enough travel on the control rod that operates the throw out bearing, And in turn the pressure plate is not being pushed in far enough to totaly disengage the clutch. You should have an adjustable rod on the linkage coming off of your clutch pedal. The linkage needs to be adjusted to take some of the free play out of the pedal and apply it onto the pressure plate. I am sure if I am incorrect one of the "H" veterns will correct me. Good luck.

Thanks, I should note that the rod pushes the lever forward so that it nearly strikes the bellhousing and in fact I needed to shim the pin outward as it did strick the tractor.

Does the swing arm into the transmission adjust too or is something inside not right?

Dan

It sounds like you have way too much "free travel". Your owners manual will describe in detail (with pictures) how to do it. It is fairly straight forward and easy.

If the throwout arm is hitting the bell housing, something major is wrong.

Adjusting the free play won't make a difference. The throwout arm is moving too far.

Plan on replacing the clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing at the very least. It can be done from underneath without splitting the tractor.

(quoted from post at 10:10:46 02/27/09) Thanks, I should note that the rod pushes the lever forward so that it nearly strikes the bellhousing and in fact I needed to shim the pin outward as it did strick the tractor.

Does the swing arm into the transmission adjust too or is something inside not right?

Dan

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Something is not right. I think you need to remove the inspection cover from under the tractor, and maybe even drop the belly pump, stick your head up in there and have a look. You DO NOT need to split the tractor in order to replace ANY or ALL of the clutch components.

If it's throwing that far forward you've got an internal problem -- you'd never be able to take it up with just the adjustment I described. That will only be hlpful after you've located and fixed the other problem.

The others have given good guidance on where to look.

Thanks...ideas where I can see what looks "normal" in there. The swing-arm into the trans-housing is striking the bell housing for sure. no slipping at all, lots of power but from 100% depressed to 1/2" back out...I am moving at full power with no slipping...what the heck is wrong? "through-out" bearing/clutch...help

The swing arm you refer to is on a shaft. There will be another arm on the inside that moves a sleeve(carrier) holding the throw out (release)bearing forward to contact the clutch fingers. At rest with the pedal up, the face of the bearing should be close (1/4" or so) to the clutch fingers. I expect you'll find it much further away.

The clutch consists of two parts that you will be able to see from underneath. First there is the cover, which will be bolted to the flywheel. In the center of the rear of the cover you will see the clutch fingers, which are hinged near the outer edge of the cover. In operation, the throwout bearing pushes the inner ends of the fingers forward against the pressure of springs built into the cover, causing the pressure plate (the third part, which isn't readily visible) to pull away from the flywheel, taking the pressure off of the friction disc, which is sandwiched between the pressure plate and the face of the flywheel.

Did this problem come up suddenly? Has anybody done any work on the clutch lately (as in, did you buy it rebuilt already)? Are there any odd noises or do you feel any rhythmic banging or snapping through the pedal?

If you can reach them, try moving the fingers by hand. Turn the engine by hand so that you can chdck them all. A little wiggle/play in and out on their hinges is okay, but if they flop back and forth, we might be on to something.

I worked on an M (similar setup) for a fellow a few years back. He'd paid for a fully restored tractor, but had the same problem you're having. It did appear to be a new clutch up in there, but the fingers were flopping all over. The clutch had never been adjusted to specs before it was installed (most of them are pre-adjusted right out of the box).

That was that case, but a failure of the pins that the fingers hinge on can cause the problem. A failure in your linkage shaft or arms could do it.

Give a look up in there and fiddle around and come on back with what you find.

In that I'm a rookie at all this, I took your info and instead of laying a 6" of snow I thought I'd first look at the part as it should be in my "TC-27E PARTS CATALOG. So, as I look under electrical...ok, joking...I see 3 clutch coices. "Auburn, Rockford (older) and Rockford newer ser. Numbers. Then, In looking at the breakdown of the clutch connections, I see what you explained as and inner rod they call clutch release shaft that slides into the clutch fork. I see that it has two friction type holders for this. Could it be that the fork spun and is out of adjustment inside or with the travel I have, is it still most likely something in the clutch itself?

I'll look at my ser # to see what clutch I'm supposed to have in there. I looked once to find it's a 1943 modle though. Thanks, Dan

I just am finishing up replacing the clutch on my H. The problem I ran into was that it was gummed up with carbon and oil from a leaking rear main seal.

There are two keys on the shaft that locate the throwout bearing that could be missing. I screwed up the first time and lost the keys. it looked like I was 180 off. The forks should be lined up with the arm.