Super A Numbers

wendle

New User
Just bought a Super A serial #317310 engine #354898 R1. Can anyone tell me anything about this tractor.
 
wendle: The engine number you've given, 354898 R1 is the block part number. That is the right block parts number for tractor serial number 317310. All Super A after serial number 310300 used that block.

The engine serial number is just below No.1 spark plug on a machined flat surface, about 1/4" to 3/8" high digits It should say FAAM then a 6 digit number. It wont be same as tractor serial number, probably 500 higher.
 
wendle: The engine number you've given, 354898 R1 is the block part number. That is the right block parts number for tractor serial number 317310. All Super A after serial number 310300 used that block.

The engine serial number is just below No.1 spark plug on a machined flat surface, about 1/4" to 3/8" high digits It should say FAAM then a 6 digit number. It wont be same as tractor serial number, probably 500 higher.
 
If you want to spend the time looking through Wisconsin Historical Society there is a lot of information on serial numbers. A lot of monthly serial numers lists and even some daily serial number lists for Super As. I looked at 1951 and 1952 Super A list and yout tractor was built August 1951, engine serial numbers were not recorded for that period but in June 1952 starting tractor number was 330738 and engine number was 332287 for 1549 units difference.
 
wendle: No water pump on Super A from the factory. First factory water pump was Super A1 serial number 356001. The same water pump can be added to any SA, A or B all the way back to 1939.

I may have been wrong when I suggested your engine serial number would be roughly 500 higher than tractor serial. NDS is indicating a 1,500 spread not far from your tractor. I know my own SA is tractor serial number 336977 with engine 338597, a spread of 1,620.
 
Hugh,
I have an early model SA with the smaller engine and no water pump, you mentioned a pump could be added, what all would I need to add a pump, tractor is compleately tore down and now would be a good time.
Thanks, Jerry
 
Jerry: All you need do is remove the bottom coolant port to the block. The pump bolts in same place using same holes. You will need a longer bolts and a longer fan main fan belt as with water pump, belt goes around 3 pulleys instead of 2. If you ask for a 100 or 130 fan belt, it should work.

I can't tell you proper length for those bolts, I've never had my SA and 130 apart at same time. Best to do a measure of pump and block hole depth.
 
Hugh,
Thanks for the reply.Course that leads to another question, hope you don"t mind.
Do you know if I put a pump on the SA, would I be able to use a later type radiator like the ones used on SAs with pumps, mine is shot and "if" I can get one, they appear to be about twice the cost of the later ones.
 
Jerry: No, you can't use a radiator from a Super A1, 100 or 130. That readiator is two inches higher and your sheet metal will not fit.

Your best bet is go for a recore at a local radiator shop. Find a shop that does a lot of tractor radiators. Make him aware that you are changing it from thermosyphon to water pump. The cores are different for the two systems. It will cost you close to $400. Don't try to cut corners.

Tractorsam ran into this couple years back. His dad decided to get the radiator recored while he was away. Turns out the shop installed a core for a water pump. Sam couldn't get it to work on thermosyphon. In the end he had to go water pump.

A lot of folks have done these without a thermostat. Personally I think an inlne thermostat in the upper rad hose, similar to type used in 100 or 130. My 130 has an inline thermostat with a hole in it to allow bypass,
 

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