need pertronix input from users

I"ve been thinking about installing the pertronix kit in my H. what type of coil do you recomend? will i need to change my plug wires? what spark plug gap do you recomend for it? and how relieable is the kit for the 6v pos ground?

thank you

This is one of those type question youre apt to get varied opinions on, so I will JUMP RIGHT IN AND kick it off with an engineers perspective.


1) To get all the benefits that improved elec switch has to offer n get the most "bang for the buck" I recommend (versus the old stock coil) a matching high energy high voltage coil such as their flame thrower series BE SURE N LET PERTRONIX MATCH THE COIL FOR THE SWITCH as some coils may draw more current n require a higher current rated switch.

2) If you run the elec switch and a high energy high voltage coil, Id widen the stock plug gap to more like at least 0.035 to 0.045 or even a bit more. With the higher energy ignition and wider plug gap you end up with a wider hotter fatter spark which discharges more energy (volts x amps x time) across the plug gap then a stock ignition...THATS JUST PHYSICS

3) Since youre running at a higher firing voltage if you widen the plug gap, you need good quality plug wires and a good clean dirt n oil n moisture n crack free distributor cap. Go with what Pertronix recommends which may be 7 or 7.5 mm etc wires but too big of a wire (8mm) might not fit just right in a stock cap CHECK WITH PERTRONIX

DISCLAIMERS:::::

From an engineers standpoint I wouldnt expect much more if any net HP gain BUTTTTTTTT I would expect better starting and idle performance versus the stock ignition

DO NOT wire it at the wrong polarity you will let the smoke out grrrrrrrrrrrr

Use a good heavy duty battery and 00 gauge battery n starter n ground cables (regardless of any ignition on a 6 volt system) cuz if shes hard to crank n the battery voltage drops drastically the elec ignition may not perform correct

DRAWBACKS a) IF the old points burn you can file them n probably get back to the shop butttttttttt if the elec switch stops YOURE SCREWED b) The elec switch costs more

ADVANTAGES Better starts n idle,,,,,,no points or condensor problems,,,,,more spark gap energy (volts x amps x time) across a wider plug gap is available for that wider hotter fatter spark AGAIN those are the laws of physics IM NOT SAYING THATS NECESSARILY BETTER its just a fact

Your tractor youre choice, best wishes BE SURE N LET PERTRONIX MATCH THE COIL N SWITCH FOR YOUR GROUND AND CURRENT RATINGS ETC

John T Tooooooo long retired engineer in Indiana

I installed one on my smta,this tractor is 12 volt neg ground factory stock option and is used for antique tractor pulls.Boy what a difference it makes,I did switch to auto lite plugs and gap is set at 45 and there is a difference in increased horse power.
You really do not have to change the coil just install and see what happens,at a latter date if you want to up grade to a high out put coil feel free. Money well spent.Paul

I have a Super A that is 6V and I put the Pertronix in it and I used their coil and it starts better and is a little snappier when you hit the throttle. It did gain 2hp on a pto dyno but there could of been a few other factors involved in that.
Shaggy

I just bought the set up from CBS Performance out of Colorado. They recommended using the Flame Thrower 12v. coil 3 ohm. version. As for the wires, they leaned toward the spiral copper wires instead of the auto type wires. Simply put less resistance in the wire meaning higher voltage to the plug.
Charles

Sounds good then, the main thing im after is for the old girl to start up faster and run a little smoother. Im glad that i can then keep my plug wires as i bought them last year from oem and they are nice. I know the H does need some head work but maybe it will buy me some time as i have 1 restroation project being done before i start on the H

I think you pretty well covered it when you said it needs head work. If it has a compression problem or leaky valves or a bad lobe on the cam or a loose/ leaky intake manifold, all the "snake oil" in the world won't make it run smoother. If it was mine, I would save the $$$ and fix the head or find out whatever else is causing it to miss. If you feel you need to go with electonic later you can, but for just a normal tractor it may be a waste of $$$. My H runs smooth as silk with the very old set of points that are in it. Even though they are old, they are set right and clean, the compression is very close all the way across the board (150-148 psi) and no miss. You might want to check and see if there is any moisture or oil mist residue in your dist cap before doing anything.

it runs very good, has great compression and the plugs run clean. But it does have a piece of carbon under a valve from the way the exhaust sounds. The old girl was never one to start up super quick like my C, dang you can barely pull the starter rod and it fires up instantly. The H is mainly a 10 seconds let up on the switch and another 10 seconds and she will fire up but i think alot of that is from the actual starter as it never spins it fast even 28 years ago when i was wee litle kid. I'm trying to buy a little time as once i do the head work, im going to replace all the gaskets and hoses on the motor

Both of my H's will start on the 2nd or 3rd revolution with their original 6 volt starting system. One has a magneto and the other a distributor. The magneto was serviced about six years ago when I rebuilt the engine on that tractor. The other one with a distributor - who knows when it was serviced last - I bought it three or four years ago and have never had it apart.

Never did understand all this 12 volt and electronic ignition conversions... I guess sixty some odd years of reliable service just isn't good enough anymore. :roll:

If you have carbon under a valve, shoot some kerosene in the air inlet on the carb and kill the engine with it. Then while it is soaking, take off the valve cover and turn all the valves that are closed several times,then roll the engine a bit and turn the rest of the valves. You should be able to do it by hand. Sometimes a light tap on the valve stem with a rubber hammer will work too but don't hit too hard or you can knock the keepers out. That should knock off the carbon if the valve isn't already burned. Try that and see if it works, you might get lucky and not have to pull the head. As far as turning over slow goes, Get new heavy gauge like 00 gauge cables and clean the connections on everything, switch, starter, grounds etc. I drove a 49 chevy truck with 6 V with the original cables on it still, for 10 years and it was hard to start hot and slow when cold. I tried everything but it always would spin slow. One day I pulled the cable off to clean it and the end just fell off. The pos side cable end was hollow inside but looked very good shape on the outside! Put new cable on and it about flipped the truck over it spun so fast! That was the end of the hot starting problem as well. If that doesn't do it, then take the starter to a good auto parts store and have them see how many amps it pulls. Too many amps will kill the coil voltage and if it does spark, it will be a weak one. If after all that is checked and it takes 10 second bursts to fire up I would bet the float in the carb is set a bit low and it is taking too long to pull the fuel up into the venturi. If it has been started and warmed up it should fire up in less than a full turn (possibly as little as a 1/4 turn) if everything is right and working like it should, even with points. Keep at it, you will have it working better than ever with a little digging and checking. Sometimes it is a little thing that can bug us for years, like the batt cable on my old truck. It "looked in great shape" but it wasn't where it counted.

(quoted from post at 10:14:26 02/22/09) Both of my H's will start on the 2nd or 3rd revolution with their original 6 volt starting system.

Click to expand...

I meant to say 2nd or 3rd compression - usually 1 to 1-1/2 revolutions... And warm they will start on the first click.