tractor vet others electrical

lenray · Feb 18, 2009

Hello TV this is on the 3010 gasser.
Took the wires off the key switch and the wires off the light switch cleaned and oiled. Didn't make any difference.
I do not have juice at the small wire down on the starter with the key on. On my 756 with the key on there is juice down there.

Tried to buy a new switch at two places no luck.

Put the switch back on--and it started the tractor.

Here is what I don't understand--THERE STILL isn't any juice on the small wire at the starter but the tractor starts.

What do you think.

thanks len at clare, michigan

Dave from Texas · Feb 18, 2009

I assume you are talking about the starter solenoid. It is entergized only when the key is turned to ignition. In the on position it is not how. The small wire acts like a switch for the main power to the starter. This limits the current through the switch. The switch contract get bad and then the solenoid does not get entergized. Hope I am on the right track for you.

Janicholson · Feb 18, 2009

The small wire on the starter is hot when the key is turned to start only. At all other times it is dead. The jiggling you did temporarily made the connection. The fault will very likely come back. Why did you OIL wires!? Using some corrosion inhibitor, or silicon spray on the wires at the connections after serious cleaning is OK, but oil, never. Best of luck, the issue is either in the IGN switch, or a terminal. See the posts on the JD forum. JimN

Bob · Feb 18, 2009

Jay, a 3010 would have the "R" terminal on the solenoid used for ignition resistor starting bypass.

Perhaps that is what he is talking about.

IIRC, the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil passes though a multiple pin disconnect behind the switch panel, and also through a TROUBLESOME multi-pin connector located just underneath the rear of the hood.

If there is an "open" somewhere in that mess, he won't be "seeing" ignition power at the "R" terminal on the solenoid, nor will the tractor have the benefit of a functioning "start bypass" across the ballast resistor. The engine will start and run, though, 'cause of the alternate circuit through the ballast resistor.

lenray · Feb 18, 2009

Thanks guys--I just put a little oil on the spades not the wires--WD-40.
BOB I think you have it--never see any power at the solenoid. Key on and key full on to start.
You mentioned it goes thru a couple other places.

Brownie 450 · Feb 19, 2009

If the connections are O.K. on all wires, try a new ignition key switch. Should be available through Deere. Most owners of the 10 & 20 series around here keep a spare key switch on hand---they always go bad on weekends at 8 P.M.

mkirsch · Feb 19, 2009

WD40 is not oil, and will quickly evaporate. You need to spray on a contact cleaner and/or anti-corrosion compound appropriate for electrical contacts.

charles todd · Feb 19, 2009

WD-40 is only a "moisture displacement" spray. If you drive your tractor into a pond it is good for drying out the ignition system. As for electrical connections, I'd do one of two things. Use some scotchbrite on the terminals, followed by contact cleaner, then use silicone grease on the terminals and inside the sta-kon's. Or scotchbrite, contact cleaner, solder, and heat shrink. I prefer the solder method. It is slower to install, and slower to repalce, but you will NEVER have to second guess the connections.

Charles

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