super a clutch

Working on a 1950 super a and attempting to replace the clutch.
The bearing I got with the new kit looks too large for the shaft. I
cannot even begin to budge removing the old bearing and shaft.
they are froze on solid. Is there a different bearing retainer I need
to get to replace the old one piece style? If so, who has one and
how much? Thanks

There were two types of bearings. One was sold as a single piece (no longer available to my knowledge) where the bearing face consisted of a block of a graphite compund molded right into the retainer. The other was a separate retainer to hold the more conventional roller bearing. It sounds as if you are switching from the former to the latter???

The old should slide right off the front of the shaft and the new bearing and retainer (Part# 6116D) slip right on. If not (maybe that's part of what caused you to want to replace it in the first place), you might be able to free it up by driving some grease in through the zerk on the side of it. If that fails you may have to pull the whole shaft (an ugly but satisfying chore that may require splitting at the front of the tranny) to get the old bearing off without tearing anything up.

If that retainer #6116D is what you need . . . I've just dug through my receipts from the same job on a SuperC and couldn't find it, but do recall going through Bermuda Ken at Carter and Gruenewald (608.455.2411) to get it. CaseIH still shows it as an active part number, but I can't remember whether Ken got it for me or referred me to a good salvage outfit.

HTH

Thanks, she is frozen solid on. I don't care what style bearing I use as long as it works. I did pump both zerks full of grease to no avail. I got a price quote of $170 for the short sleeve and bearing retainer, I will be shopping around.

Shoppin' around never hurt a thing! You might try Bates or Glen Mlnarik at Little Red Tractor Co, just as sources I've used.

As far as gettin' what you've got off, short of pullin' the shaft, a little judicious heat might help to get it started. Nothing intense as you don't want to heat the shaft any more than you can avoid. If you were able to drive any grease in there, a hand-held propane or Mapp (faster, hotter) torch ought to heat it up enough to get the grease running and give you some expansion to get it going. If you pull the cotter pins and drive the retainer for the fork out through so that you can drop the fork toward the rear, you could also use a drift and a light hammer to try driving it toward the rear, just to get it started and then work it back off the front. Just don't try to dirve it with the fork in place -- it will bend and you don't want that.

Should that fork have a slight bend to it already? I noticed when I took it off, did that first, it was at a slight angle.

Don't think it is supposed to be bent, but a heavy footed operator can bend them BTDT.

They start out straight but are made of pretty soft stuff and often bow over time. Dependin' on where your pedal adjustmnet was and any difference in depth between your old bearing/carrier and the new one, if the bend is only slight, I'd consider turnin' it around with the new bearing and adjust the free play from there. Just a thought.

And how to eyeball it. I sure don't want you havin' to re-split your tractor on my account!!! Those forks will bow quite a ways before you cant' adjust your free play, so if your bow is slight you might want to just put it back in as is, barring a radical difference in the height of the old bearing/carrier and the new when you compare them standing on end.

It'll take a little trigonometry to figure how much thread you would have to have available on the clutch pushrod to accommodate the effect of the bow and any difference in the depth of the bearings and carriers, but can be done. For rough purposes you can figure to need about twice the thread as the net sum of the bow and the difference in the depth of the bearings and carriers IF you want to turn it around.

Keep in mind that pulling the rod back reduces freeplay, threading it forward increases it. If your rod is threaded way forward already, and the bow is slight, say 3/8" or less, there's a good chance you could just turn the bow toward the front when you put it back in and run.