widowmaker front end

A single front tire is the worst. Really not an advisable option. Next would be a narrow front (probably with Rol-O-Matic 1st then standard two wheel narrow. Wide front axles are also tippy but their fulcrum pivot is much higher and (though the tractor will tip, it can stop when it reaches the limit of axle travel, but often does not). The real widow maker in this topic is the widow's husband, (now departed) whos idiot actions and methods killed him.
Rear loaded tires, Wheel weights, Reduced travel height with the bucket, not workong on side hills, being aware of the mass of the load, wide set wear wheels, Rubber snubber pads used on the axle tops with a wide front, and slowing for turns. These reduce the chances of making the widow. JimN
 
heres a couple of my widowmakers!!!
the h is running loaded tires with one weight on each rear, the m is running loaded tires, 3 weights on each rear.
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James: Jim has given you most of it. I my opinion no such thing as a widowmaker front end, widowmaker is the guy who put it all together, usually the guy in the seat. Now, if he didn't put it all together, he can change it before he uses it. As Jim said, never use a single front wheel on a loader. If your going to use two wheel narrow front, set those back wheels out to 84" wheel tread, center to center. In all cases load those back tires with liquid, add wheel weights. Lower that CENTER OF GRAVIETY. Two items lower that center of graviety, ballast and Wheel spread. Those are the greatest widowmakers of all, folks running loaders without ballast and wheels set less than 72" centers.
 
Do not claim to know which front end is most stable but most wide fronts are in flat Mid West and wide front M or H is rare in Applachin hills and they for sure have some steep hill sides.
 

We had F10 Farmhand loaders on 2 wide fronts and 2 row crops( narrow front)Only had one upset and that was because a bolt broke. Really dont know which is better. A wide front may give you a sense of security
 
A narrow front has the pivot point at ground level, where the front wheels touch the ground. A wide front will raise the pivot point several inches off the ground, which will help stabilize the whole tractor. Lowering the center of gravity will help. You can do this with wheel weights.

I just got a WFE for my M with a Farmhand loader. I still need to install it. I've got a line on some more wheel weights. I like the idea of widening the stance of the rear wheels, too. I have a cracked wheel center, so I need to replace that, and as long as I have the wheels off...
 
Exactly. Wide fronts do not keep tractors from tipping because they are made to pivot. By the time the pivot hits the stop the back wheel is already a foot or two off the ground. It's going over boys, Get outa the way.
 
I would think the narrow front would tip a little easier because the bottom of the narrow front tire is the pivot point. That makes everything above it top heavy. With the wide front end the front pivot point is in the bolster and that raises the pivot point quite a bit. Just my idea, either way when it start to tip it's too late.
 

A wide front axle has just one pivot point, directly at the center of the tractor. A narrow front has two pivot points, one on either side of the center line of the tractor. Theoretically, the wide front axle is less stable and will upset quicker than a narrow front. Think about it!

In reality, the number one reason for tractor roll-overs is operator error!!
That fact cannot be stressed enough.
 
If the tip is from having something too high or turning too fast. In a dead lift trying to pick up something that shouldn't be with the particular tractor, or carrying something heavy straight down a hill, it will tilt to the end of the pivot and go over forward. With a wide front.

When Dwight's shop burnt I used a 584 to move some stuff around like that. And we've set lots of large solid cement blocks with the backhoe, and halfway down the hill it took on a 3-wheeled type of configuration.
 

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