1066 cab wiring.

Doug in Illinois · Feb 13, 2009

I did an archive search and did find some good advice, but need to know where to start. The gauges and their backlights all work, but the only other lights that work are the headlights above the grille. The field lights, windshield wiper, heater fan motor, radio, etc. have not worked for quite a while. I am now using one 12V battery on the left side instead of the 2 6V so I have good access to the cab solenoid that would be behind the RH battery. The new solenoid is quite cashy according to our local dealer, but not a problem IF it would fix it. Alternatively, as one of the archive posts said, should I consider getting a good wiring diagram (help!) and split out the circuits? DOUG

Allan in NE · Feb 13, 2009

Hi Doug, How goes the battle? :>)

Those lights aren't on the cab wiring; just the dome light so you'll have to trace them out by themselves.......and, I'd sure check that light switch first.

Everything else you speak of is feeding off that relay.

Allan

Doug in Illinois · Feb 13, 2009

Allan:
I understand basic wiring, and can chase opens with test light and/or multimeter. Shorts can be a little tougher, but I know if no continuity from point A to point B it is one or the other. I am hoping to NOT have to chase all the wires, as you already know not many are color coded or if they are have red paint all over them. I think I need a good wiring diagram, but if you can tell me how to check the relay might be a lot easier fix. DOUG

Allan in NE · Feb 13, 2009

Doug,

That relay works just like a Ford starter relay.

Ignition is fed to the little terminal by the ignition switch. When "on", ya gets the voltage at the large "out" terminal.

Does your fuel/air filter gauges work? If so, that rules out the ignition switch.

Also, they had a nasty habit of cooking the hot wires at the plug-in there by the cab pillar on the right side. Where the loom heads upstairs.

Allan

Doug in Illinois · Feb 13, 2009

Allan:
The air filter restriction gauge does indeed work, as does the fuel gauge. The only things not working are as mentioned before, and I do think I need to take a hard look at the plug going up into the pillar. I thought for just a split second I heard something in the cab make a noise when I was wiggling and jiggling all the wires with all possible loads turned on. Couldn't get it to do it again. DOUG

Brownie 450 · Feb 14, 2009

Be sure that the 2 side lights ahead of the cab steps aren't burned out. Use the ohmmeter to check them---then use the voltmeter to see if you have voltage to the light plugs with the light switch on.
Lots of the connectors get dirt in them, & would probably benefit from a good cleaning--at which time you could look for corrosion on the terminal lugs. If you have corrosion to the point of the lugs being no longer usable, you can wire around the connector by cutting the wire on each side of the connector block & splicing in a short piece of wire.

charles todd · Feb 14, 2009

If ya need to replace the relay (solenoid) NAPA has a 70-80 amp relay that resembles a Ford starter solenoid but rated for continous use, 100% duty cycle, a starter solenoid will cook. I got it for less than $25. Good luck.

Charles

1066 cab wiring.

Doug in Illinois

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Allan in NE

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Doug in Illinois

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Allan in NE

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Doug in Illinois

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Brownie 450

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charles todd

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