Broken Part in Farmall A Housing

Tom in Iowa City · Feb 12, 2009

1941 Farmall A.
I removed the right rear axle housing pan today to change the 80W90 gear oil (3 pints). In the bottom of the pan I found a broken piece of the housing. I am attaching images. What is the significance of the break? What is the purpose of the round projections in the housing. Arrow points to the broken part. I am wondering if I have a communication to the outside because the gear oil was very runny and not the proper viscosity. I may have gotten water in, as there was a little rust in the pan. I would have to remove the drawbar to see if there is a through hole in the housing.
Thanks for ideas, Tom in Iowa City

<a href="http://s414.photobucket.com/albums/pp223/tschulein/?action=view&current=Brokenhousingforwebpostingcopy.jpg" target="_blank">

Brokenhousingforwebpostingcopy.jpg" border="0" alt="Broken Housing

</a>

<a href="http://s414.photobucket.com/albums/pp223/tschulein/?action=view&current=Brokenpartforwebpostingcopy.jpg" target="_blank">

Brokenpartforwebpostingcopy.jpg" border="0" alt="Broken Part

</a>

john d · Feb 12, 2009

Check to see if there isn't a bolt somewhere on that casting that was a little too long when somebody torqued it down tight! That piece looks like it's the bottom of a blind bolt hole.

TheDurk · Feb 12, 2009

Looks like John D nailed it: that round housing is where the drawbar bolt goes into the casting from the other side and now that the end broke off is open to the outside. Or, there may be some plate (drawbar hanger??) over it, that covers it but water can still get inside. Leaving a bolt in it would solve the leak but might not be doable with the way things are bolted on now.

Janicholson · Feb 13, 2009

I agree with the others on the cause. The arrowed casting boss is the source of the domed chip. Feel in the hole to determine if there is a bolt occupying it. Do this from the inside with a piece of stiff wire, or a good light and better angle. If there is, clean and apply a modest layer of RTV. Let cure and put it all back together.
If there is no bolt I would use a small wire brush (3/8" bottle style brush and clean the threads very well (from inside). Then I would run a tap into the hole from the inside to assure it is clean. Then I would take a correctly sized socket head setscrew (about 1/2" long) and use a dremel cutoff grinder wheel to make a screw driver slot in the end opposite the hex socket. I would put #2 non hardening permatex on the threads of the setscrew, and screw it into the hole backwards (hex head first) and tighten it with the screw driver slot. Now you are done. The next person needing the use of that hole will find a convienient way to remove it from the outside. JimN

Tom in Iowa City · Feb 13, 2009

Jim,
I already reinstalled the pan and added the oil, before reading your reply.
What do you think about removing the bolt from the drawbar, the one that caused the problem, and adding some appropriate thread sealant? If so, which sealant do you recommend?
Tom

Janicholson · Feb 13, 2009

If it is not leaking now, it is not likely to be leaking in the future. If you drain all the new fluid out, then remove the bolt, then clean it well, you could use the #2 permatex on the bolt to seal the threads, But do not unless it leaks. It either has a bolt in it (as you indicate) or the covering material is smashed up against the hole providing a seal. Best of luck, JimN

Broken Part in Farmall A Housing

Tom in Iowa City

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john d

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TheDurk

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Janicholson

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Tom in Iowa City

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Janicholson

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