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Rims

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Farmall Bob

Member
Hi,

I have a Farmall Super C with badly rusted rims. Has anyone taken then apart and done any repairs? How did it come out? I am thinking of taking mine apart, clean them good, and use fiber glass to make the reppairs. There are holes large enough to place the tip of a pincel through. Thanks! any help much appreciated.

Bob
 
Any good repair is going to require some welding and patching to 1) be safe and 2) hold up to the strain if the tractor does any work.

A fiberglass patch on the inside and bondo to fill the hole will probably keep your tube inside the rim and look nice, but is about like puttying in the cracks and painting a wooden ladder.

If you've got pencil-size holes, the metal around them in going to be weak too and really needs replacing to do it right. A weak enough rim with enough weight or strain on it will collapse or crush itself, with all the attendant troubles, and fiberglass isn't gong to do anything for strength on a steel rim.

If your holes are localized, like from calcium damage (around the valve stems is common, you can weld patches from a third rim into them. DickL posted some nice pics of such a job on, I think, some Allis wheels a month or six weeks ago over on Tractor Talk.
 
Okay, it was a Ford Dick welded up. Link is to the TT post, and has a link on to Dick's Fotki album. Page forward through that to see how he did it.
Here
 
Hi ScottyHOMEy,

"WOW"! Thanks a lot. I will get my rims off to see what they look like. If time permitting I would like to try doing that. If they arn't to bad may be a sheet metal patch on the inside? Thanks again.

Bob
 
You'd have to get them off to do a repair from the inside anyway, so by all means do and have a look around to see just what you're dealing with.

What you want to avoid is a glass and putty repair on any structural or working part. It's fine for the rotted bottoms of battery boxes and other tin, but not for anything that carries any load or stress.

Sheet metal isn't going to be much better than glass as a patch. I wouldn't use either to patch a hole right through a rim, and especially not if it is anywhere near the beads.

And if you do go to weld anything on a rim, at the very least you need to have the valve cores out of the stem on your tube or tubeless stem. Can you say boom!?!?
 
Hi ScottyHOMEy,

OK, Thanks. I will take them off to inspect them. If I don't have the time and they are bad to the point they need repairs like in the pictures, I will just bit the bullet and get another good used pair or buy new ones.

Bob
 
My tire dealers would not air up tires on rims like you describe. Life is short, get some good rims and take these to the scrap yard. NEVER WELD UP A RUSTED RIM! That is unless you do not put any value on your arms, your legs, your wife, your children, or any livestock that may be standing near when the thing blows.
 

I'm with LMack. A "C" rim off this site is a little less than $100. I had to do both original rear rims on my 1966 140 within the last five years. (same cost/size as a "C" rim.) If I'm sideways on a hillside and a rear tire loses pressure suddenly at the worst possible moment (Murphy has a special chapter on tractors), then we are talking about rolling an open tractor. I bought new ones when I saw the rust holes. I'll patch something else.
 
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